Guayaquil and aroundFor those travelling from the Andean highlands to the coast by road, the last leg of the journey is as breathtaking as what has preceded it. Youwill head west from Cuenca into the ruggedwilderness of El Cajas National Park. The craggyhills are interspersed with more than 200 lagoonsand lakes: a full day's drive through here descendsinto the breathtaking steamy coastal lowlands that lead to Guayaquil, the largest city in thecountry. The city has not had much to entice thevisitor, but large parts of it have recently beenrenovated and the harbour area is now a pleasantplace for a stroll and a bite to eat. Flights to andfrom the Galapagos touch down in Guayaquil,making the city a logistically sensible place for an overnight stop. Southern EcuadorSouth of Cuenca the Pan American Highwaywinds itself through increasingly remotecountryside into the Saraguro ('land of the corn')region of the country. The Saraguros are one ofthe most distinctive communities in Ecuador withtheir unique black clothing, own dialect ofQuechua language and elaborate silver and nickeljewellery. Their relaxed way of life has led to anunusual longevity with some of the oldest peoplein the world living here. The main city in the region is Loja which has afascinating faded colonial centre and a noticeablywarmer climate than other parts of the Andes.The city lies on the western edge of thePodocarpus National Park, one of the world'smost bio-diverse areas, with its variety of habitatsand large expanses of virgin forest sheltering adazzling variety of wildlife. It is particularlyrenowned for birdlife with over 600 species that make their home here, representing 40% of all avian species in Ecuador. Podocarpus is also home to fantastic orchids and spectacularscenery including pristine Andean lakes andwaterfalls. This region is best travelled by roadover a period of three to four days or by aspectacular 45 minute early morning flight fromQuito which spans the entire length of theAvenue of Volcanoes.38Saraguro man, southern EcuadorEl Cajas National ParkGuayaquil cathedralParadise tanager, Podocarpus National Park

Ecuadorian AmazonThe Ecuadorian wedge of the Amazon rainforestwill enchant visitors with its cacophony ofbirdsong, the playful whoops of monkeys, the stillblack waters of the rivers, and the flutter ofcolourful butterflies and tropical birds. Wildlifespotting opportunities are excellent at the lodgeshere, and your guides may be from localindigenous communities, as they are becomingmore involved with eco-tourism and haveunrivalled knowledge of the Amazonian flora andfauna. They can point out rare species ofkingfisher, signal where to look for river dolphinson a canoe excursion, or explain the medicinalpurposes of some of the thousands of plants. You will usually enter the rainforest by air, andthen travel by boat to one of the jungle lodgestucked away on the rivers, or take a cruise ofseveral days on a boat such as the ManateeExplorer. Ecuador is proud of its relatively remoteand unspoiled Amazon, which offers an authenticrainforest experience to its visitors.NAPOWILDLIFECENTREThis lodge is located within the Yasuní NationalPark in the northern Amazon region. Guests arewelcomed to the lodge with a refreshing passion-fruit drink after a five hour naturalist tourdownriver from Coca, during which time you willalready have seen a plethora of rare bird andplant-life. The lodge is exclusive, with just tensimple but well-equipped cabanas, each withprivate balcony and beautiful views of therainforest. Your hosts here are the local Anangucommunity who built the lodge, and areexperienced naturalist guides who will accompanyyou on excursions into the jungle and welcomeyour questions about the area. Fishing trips andexcursions to the nearby parrot lick are oftenhighlights of an Amazon stay here. Napo's profitsgo back into the community and towardsAmazon preservation.SACHALODGESacha Lodge is located in a private reserve on the River Napo, two and a half hours bymotorised canoe from Coca. The lodge overlooksthe scenic black water Pilchicocha Lake, repletewith marine and birdlife. Guests will stay in one of the comfortable double cabins, each with aprivate terrace and designed to look aswww.audleytravel.com/ecuador ?01993 838 655 ?Ecuador & the Galapagos39unobtrusive as possible amidst the dense junglevegetation. Sacha is renowned for its warmwelcome, skilled naturalist guides and deliciouscuisine. It also boasts an observation tower, idealfor bird watching, and a 300 metre long walkwaythat threads through the jungle canopy. HUAORANIECOLODGEHuaorani Ecolodge provides the unique culturalexperience of living near and learning about theHuaorani culture. It is situated in terra firmarainforest (forest that is never flooded) about a 90 minute walk, or 45 minute canoe ride from the community of Quehueri'ono. Theaccommodation consists of five palm-thatchedcabins constructed of local wood, within whichare fitted modern tents. The lodge providesguests with one of the most authenticexperiences - to meet one of the last indigenousAmazon cultures to be contacted by missionariesduring the 19th century.Napo parrotHuaorani EcolodgeSacha LodgeCobalt-winged parakeetsPygmy marmoset monkeyHuaorani ladyTiger-striped tree frog