Around Rio de JaneiroRio de Janeiro is an excellent starting point fromwhich to get out and explore the surroundingcountryside. A couple of hours north from Rioyou are soon surrounded by Atlantic rainforest,the perfect environment for walking and trekkingand one of the best places in Brazil forbirdwatching. An excellent option is the Serra dosÓrgãos National Park, famous for its organ pipelike rock formations, and nearby the Serra dosTucanos birding lodge which has recorded over200 species of bird in its grounds alone.www.audleytravel.com/brazil ?01993 838 610 ?Brazil61CarnivalSome of the most striking and colourfulimages of Brazil are taken during its worldrenowned Carnival, which takes place everyyear in the build up to Lent. Carnival time isan opportunity for Brazil to let its hair downand take to the streets to enjoy the dancingand music it is so well known for. For theinternational visitor it is an eye opening andsomewhat frenetic collision of colours andsounds, of scantily-clad Brazilian bodies andice cold beer. The biggest celebrations take place in Rio,where thousands of brightly-coloured featherand sequin clad dancers samba their waythrough the parade ground of theSambadrome to the intoxicating beat ofdrums, whistles and the 'whoops' of thecrowd. Rio is the place for the grandestcostumes and most impressive parades butfor a more participatory and perhapsauthentic experience of Carnival, thenortheast towns of Salvador, Olinda andRecife come alive at this time of year. Visitorscan immerse themselves in the action, joiningthe crowds of revellers that stream throughthe streets following huge papier macheheads, samba bands and 'Trio Electricos' -Serra dos TucanosFavela, Rio de JaneiroCopacabana beach, Rio de JaneiroRio CarnivalCopacabana beach, Rio de Janeirohuge floats covered in speakers carrying someof Brazil's most famous live bands and singers. Carnival celebrations tend to last for about a week and there is little respite from thefestivities, especially in the northeast. We alsorecommend the Winners' Parade which takesplace in Rio the weekend after Carnival itself,featuring the winning samba groups from theprevious week's parades. It offers a wonderfultaste of the vibrant colours and sounds ofCarnival without the same levels of intensity.Mosaic staircase, Santa Teresa

VILAD'ESTE, BÚZIOSVila d'Este is a small and stylish boutique hotelwith 14 rooms, only a short distance from thebars and restaurants of Búzios. The rooms arelocated around beautifully landscaped gardens,overlooking the ocean and the beach, which isdirectly in front of the hotel. The hotel isequipped with two small swimming pools, onewith views out across the Atlantic Ocean.Ilha GrandeHeading west of Rio, the high-rise suburbs giveway to mile upon mile of white sand beachesbacked by emerald rainforest covering rolling hills.This is Rio state's 'Costa Verde' (Green Coast)and is the gateway to the jungle covered island ofIlha Grande, a peaceful haven where motorvehicles are forbidden and the beaches are divine.To compliment these idyllic stretches of coastline,the island is dotted with a number of lovely rustic,but comfortable, pousadas. ParatyTravelling west along the coast from Ilha Grandewill take you to the delightful colonial town ofParaty. This peaceful and picturesque town haschanged little since it was the principal port forthe gold trade in the colonial era, and thecobbled streets and ornate churches are anabsolute delight to wander around. A couple ofdays here are a perfect way to relax; there arebicycle tours heading into the nearby hills, or youcan board a schooner to take you to one of amultitude of small uninhabited islands just off thecoast. The surrounding waters are very calm andexcellent for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking.BúziosA few hours drive east of Rio, you will come tothe chic, almost Mediterranean resort of Búzios.The town's cobbled streets echo its past as aquiet fishing village, but Búzios was put on themap by Brigitte Bardot who stayed here in the1960s, and it has since become a lively butrelaxed place. The town retains a pleasantatmosphere, and makes for a good beachextension to any visit to Rio. Situated on a smallpeninsula that is scalloped by sandy beaches, youcan snorkel, scuba, island hop on schooners orbeach hop on buggies, lie in the sun or make themost of the cafes, restaurants and shops. Thereare several lovely hotels and pousadas scatteredthroughout the town. As well as Vila d'Estementioned below we also recommend PousadaCasas Brancas, Insólito Boutique Hotel andPousada Corsário.62Paraty and the peaks of the Green Coast's Atlantic rainforestVila d'Este, BúziosTypical Paraty architecture