CONVENTODOCARMO,SALVADORThis charmingly restored 16th century conventcombines character with five star facilities such as a swimming pool, butler service and spa.Certain features of the convent have beenimmaculately preserved such as the Sacristywhere guests can marvel at the opulent goldenornamentation. The hotel has 90 beautifullydecorated and well-equipped rooms and suites. Ifyou do not feel like sampling some of thedelicious food at the local restaurants in thePelourinho district, then it has its own finerestaurant and bar.CASADOAMARELINDO,SALVADORSuperbly located in the historic centre ofSalvador, this charming hotel occupies a fullyrestored 19th century building. Furnished to highspecifications and lovingly run, there are just tenrooms, with decoration inspired by the Bahiancolonial culture with a touch of African influence.Boasting a small swimming pool and rooftop barwith breathtaking views over the Bay of Todos osSantos, wonderful 'home style' cooking using localingredients and a bar stocked with local cachaças,you are well placed to relax and enjoy theexperience that is Salvador.Salvador Brazil's oldest city, the capital of the state of Bahia,and formerly the capital of Brazil itself, is certainlyone of the most beautiful and interesting in thecountry. Influences from Portugal, Africa and Brazilare all evident and seem to collide here in afascinating cultural melting pot. The legacy of thePortuguese is present in the cobbled streets ofthe historic Pelourinho district, lined with itspastel-hued colonial buildings. However, it is theAfrican influence that really makes a visit toSalvador unique. The enduring and vibrant culture,food and religion of the African slave era are stillevident, from the graceful art form of capoeira,the part-dance, part-martial art once used by theslaves as a form of rebellion, to the pulsing music,dance and colourful costumes of the Candombléreligion, a fusion of Catholicism and Africanindigenous rituals. By day, you can enjoy its cultural heritage bystrolling past ornate churches and candy-colouredmansions, through doorways piled high with folkart, local sculptures and musical instruments andacross tranquil courtyards covered in flowers.Afterwards, as the sun sets, enjoy a delicious mealof one of the spicy specialities of Bahian cuisine,take in a theatre performance or simply pull up astool in one of the bars and watch the vibrantnightlife unfold.68Street dancers, SalvadorCasa do Amarelindo, SalvadorCapoeira on the streets, Salvador

Lençóis and ChapadaDiamantinaThe small and pretty town of Lençóis is a 45minute flight or a seven hour road journey fromSalvador. It is the gateway into the stunningscenery of Chapada Diamantina National Park, a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The town ofLençois has its roots in mining, and whilst timeand the weather have faded its colonial legacy, itis a lovely place from which to explore the park.This national park is an area of flat-toppedmountains and forested valleys dotted withbeautiful waterfalls and hidden caves, such asPoço Encantado, where the midday sun shinesthrough a natural window, turning the water amagical electric blue. A stay here will leavememories of spectacular vistas, orchids andhummingbirds, iridescent underground lakes andrefreshing dips in clear, crisp waters. Recife and OlindaRecife is the place to fly into for stays in theneighbouring town of Olinda, and the wonderfulbeaches to the south. Modern and busy with asmall colonial centre, Recife itself holds little ofreal interest to the visitor, but perched on ahilltop overlooking the city is the colonial gem ofOlinda. Here time has stood still and cobbledstreets are home to magnificent Baroquechurches and convents, pastel-coloured houses,mansions and ornate fountains. Dotted with shadyplazas and swaying palm trees, and steeped inhistory, it is not a surprise that bohemian Olindahas been given UNESCO World Heritage status.For a beach stay after some time exploring here,the coast south of Recife and Olinda is delightfuland has a number of lovely pousadas. www.audleytravel.com/brazil ?01993 838 610 ?Brazil69Chapada DiamantinaOlindaStreet vendor, SalvadorRooftops, OlindaSelf-drive inNortheastern BrazilRecife is the perfect starting point forsome self-drive exploration along thecoast of the Pernambuco state, headingsouth to Bahia and Salvador. The roadsin this area are mostly surfaced androutes well signed but a sense ofadventure is always recommended! Self-drive offers the opportunity to getoff the beaten track and visit thecommunities and beaches along thisbeautiful stretch of coast. Further southis the delightful colonial town of Penedowith is bustling markets and interestingarchitecture. The route is lined withpleasant accommodation optionsincluding Pousada Praiagogi nearMaragogi beach.Typical road, Pernambuco stateOlinda