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Your stay here will be based in one of thefazenda-style lodges which have excellent guidesto accompany you on the various excursionsincluding day and evening jeep safaris, canoe tripsand horse riding.FAZENDABARRANCOALTO,PANTANALFazenda Barranco Alto is tucked away in thesouthern area of the Pantanal. The fazenda's landcontains more than 100 lakes, over 400 differentbirds and all sorts of mammals, as well asuntouched vegetation. For decades the fazendahas been a cattle ranch, and still is, however nowit also welcomes guests. Family-run, it has just four rooms and therefore offers an exclusiveexperience with plenty of wildlife spottingopportunities. All the activities of the farm arebased on sustainable principles. Hyacinth macaware seen daily, as well as trogon, jacamar, toucan,raptor and numerous other species.POUSADARIOMUTUM,PANTANALPousada Rio Mutum is located in the state ofMato Grosso in the northern Pantanal. It consistsof 16 simple air-conditioned apartments, eachwith hot water and a hammock on the veranda.The grounds are grassy and dotted with a varietyof local trees which are a haven for birds andanimals including macaw, paraqueet and Brazilianporcupine. The Mutum river flows steadily about100 metres from the lodge but during the wetseason it rises almost to the edge of the grounds.Chapada dos GuimarãesChapada dos Guimarães is a stunning nationalpark, popular with Brazilian visitors and growing in popularity with international travellers too asthe reputation of the northern Pantanal grows.The Chapada is about 800 metres higher than theenormous, flat plains of the Pantanal so it enjoyscooler temperatures which gives rise to differentflora and fauna. It is made up of stunning table-top mountains, ravines, caves, streams andwaterfalls and is a haven for walkers and naturelovers, especially birdwatchers. Chapada dosGuimarães is very easily combined with a stay inthe northern Pantanal and provides a totallycontrasting experience to the Pantanal's wetlands.The PantanalFor wildlife viewing, there are few better places inthe world than the Pantanal between April andSeptember. The animals and birds here are similarto those found in the nearby Amazon basin, butthey are much easier to spot due to the lack ofdense jungle. The Pantanal is an enormous area of seasonally flooded savannah lowlands andwetlands, which creates a fertile environment oflakes, streams and pond. Hyacinths and giantwater lilies rest on the lake surfaces, whilstbeneath the surface anacondas lurk amongst thefish that are darting away from the feet of jabirustorks. Capybara and caiman sun themselves onthe banks, and howler and capuchin monkeyschatter and swing from tree to tree, past thetoucans, macaws and parrots as they fan theiriridescent feathers. Other animals to which thisvast area is home include anteater, armadillo,otter, marmoset and even jaguar and puma. 72Capybara, PantanalLocal children, PantanalPousada Rio Mutum, Pantanal Manaus From whichever direction your plane approachesManaus, you will watch in awe as you pass overthe enormous expanse of green wildernessbefore reaching your destination. This steamyport in the middle of the Amazon rainforest is aproduct of the 19th century rubber boom, buttoday is the commercial hub of the entireAmazon region. The most incongruous site isperhaps the city's opera house, a grand, marble-halled, chandelier-bedecked building thatstill puts on fine shows in the heart of theAmazon. The hectic port area is an atmosphericblur of sailors, passengers and vendors, as goodsand people arrive and depart.The Brazilian AmazonThe two rivers that are adjacent to Manaus, theSolimões and Negro (Black) rivers, merge to formwhat we know as the mighty Amazon River,which even here, 1,600 kilometres from theAtlantic, is ten kilometres wide. Their meeting,however, is a little unusual; the yellow waters ofthe Solimões run alongside the waters of theNegro for six kilometres before converging. The rainforest's immense network of waterwaysand lakes is home to an abundance of plant andanimal species, with many more yet undiscovered.The area's sheer size means that whilst a stayhere in one of the lodges or boats will be afascinating experience, you are unlikely to see thewealth of animal life which can be spotted inother parts of the Amazon. However, it is stillhighly enjoyable to spend days walking withbiologist guides and taking boat trips along thepeaceful rivers. For those with a real interest inseeing wildlife, we recommend visiting theAmazon regions of Ecuador or Peru.AMAZONECOPARK, NEARMANAUSThe Amazon Eco Park is located 30 minutes byboat from Manaus, on the banks of the TarumaRiver. The lodge comprises 60 comfortable butsimple rooms, with private bathrooms (with hotwater showers), fans and air-conditioning. There is a large open air restaurant serving regionalcuisine, a private beach and natural pools.Excursions include boat trips, treks through thejungle, caiman spotting at night by torch light,piranha fishing and visits to local village tribes.Accommodation is simple but it's a great, goodvalue introduction to the Amazon.UAKARIFLOATINGLODGE, NEARTEFÉAccessed from the town of Tefé, Uakari FloatingLodge is located inside the Mamiraua Reserve andconcentrates on ecotourism activities. It has tensimple, comfortable and ample apartments, withwarm solar-powered showers. The reserve is astate conservation area located around thewww.audleytravel.com/brazil ?01993 838 610 ?Brazil73Solimões River. It is made up of channels, lakesand seasonally flooded forest. The trails aredesigned not to be physically demanding and may be walked in one to three hours at the longest.During the flood season (May to July) allexcursions are done in a small paddle canoe.AMAZONCRUISESSeveral boats depart the docks at Manaus forinteresting trips along the Amazon and her manytributaries. Ranging in length from a couple ofnights cruising in the local area, to seven nightsventuring further afield, these cruises are an easy-paced way to see the Amazon. The Clipperand Tucano cruises are recommended and eachof their boats carry between eight and 20passengers on relaxed three or seven nightcruises. A more luxury option is offered by thelarger Iberostar cruise. Pale-faced saki monkeyMeeting of the Waters, near ManausToucan, AmazonCowboy at Fazenda Barranco Alto, PantanalJabiru stork |