www.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina83Mansion Vitraux, San TelmoTango muralRECOLETAACCOMMODATIONThe greenest and grandest of all the Buenos Aires barrios, Recoleta is the most exclusive andexpensive part of the city, but located withinwalking distance or a short taxi ride fromdowntown. The hotels here are all at the upperend of the price scale and include the Park HyattPalacio Duhau, which boasts a magnificent centralgarden, the good value Sofitel which offers greatservice and facilities, the Casa Sur Art Hotel, anelegant boutique property, and the traditionallyluxurious Alvear Palace, visited by the rich andfamous since the 1930s.SANTELMOANDMONSERRATACCOMMODATIONA grittier part of the city, San Telmo andMonserrat are characterised by historic but fadedarchitecture, and bohemian atmosphere. LaCayetana in Monserrat is one of our favouritehotels, offering great value and friendlyaccommodation in an old mansion. The nearbybarrio of San Telmo is a place of antique shops,tango memorabilia, plazas encircled by cafes andrestaurants, and an increasingly gentrified air. Here you will find the Mansion Dandi Royal, ahotel dedicated to celebrating the tango by wayof murals, music and the lessons it offers in thebasement academy, and Mansion Vitraux, a stylishboutique property with wine bar and spa.PUERTOMADEROACCOMMODATIONThe renovated port area of the city, PuertoMadero is now a place of spruced-up red brickwarehouses, eye-catching modern buildings and long promenades alongside fine restaurants.A quiet but developing area, here lies the PhilippeStarck-designed Faena, a modern but majesticwarehouse building with a unique interior designand excellent levels of service. Also here is theHotel Madero, a good value option for those who want to be in this part of the city.PALERMOACCOMMODATIONFurther out of the city lies the vast barrio ofPalermo, which is broken down into mini-barriossuch as Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.Over the last few years this area has seen a hugeinflux of stylish new hotels, bars, restaurants andshops, making it a bustling and popular place withvisitors and locals alike. The Legado Mitico is oneof our favourite hotels in all the city; an exclusivelittle place of 11 rooms, all themed on greatArgentinians through history, and with a smallcourtyard well away from the hustle and bustle of the city, plus on the top floor there is an openair Jacuzzi. Other favourites in Palermo includethe Hotel Nuss and, on the very edge of thebarrio, the 248 Finisterra.The TangoBuenos Aires has always been one of themost enchanting cities of the world,embodying the spirit of youth, passion and a zest for life. So it's no wonder that when a wave of European immigrants swept intothe region in the late 19th century, theirmusical styles began to mix with the existingcocktail of Hispanic, African and indigenousinfluences, creating an exciting new musicform, the tango. The sound originated in the city's bars andbrothels, though it soon spread from thebarrios in the early 20th century to thesalons of the upper classes where moreformal dance steps and less racy lyrics wereintroduced. This acceptance led to anexplosion in popularity locally as well as onthe other side of the Atlantic in Paris. Tango became identified with nationalism inthe 1940s however and as President Peron'spolitical life became problematic, tango'spopularity waned. It was only in the 1970sthat tango began to reinvent itself with jazzand classical influences igniting a nuevo tango.Not only was it firmly back on the scene butmore popular than ever, particularly theoriginal milongas (public dances) of the early20th century. Tango aficionados will find their passionreflected throughout the Buenos Aires oftoday. Painted murals of dancers in clinchesadorn the historic Mansion Dandi Royal hotelin San Telmo, and you can learn a few stepsat the attached Tango Academy (group orprivate lessons are possible) and practise (withlocals if you are brave) at the regular milongasthat they hold. Alternatively you can visit oneof the many evening shows that include finedining whilst being entertained by a live tangoorchestra and breathtaking dancers. Whetheryou dance it yourself or simply soak up theatmosphere, it's difficult to leave Buenos Aireswithout having fallen under the spell of thetango's pervasive charm.Local market, San TelmoWomen's Bridge, Puerto MaderoSan Telmo

CANDELARIADELMONTE, NEARBUENOSAIRESCandelaria del Monte is a working estanciaoffering a range of activities such as horse riding,birdwatching, and polo matches. The house itself has many colonial characteristics and therooms have some quirky touches. There is aswimming pool, and vast grounds full of differentkinds of trees. Meals are based around thetraditional Argentine 'asados' (barbecues) and'pucheros' (stews) plus tasty Patagonian lamb and trout. The friendly owners will ensure a very memorable stay.LAELOISA, NEARBUENOSAIRESEstancia la Eloisa is in the heart of the pampas, in a region that specialises in producing some ofthe best polo ponies in the world. This traditionalestancia is the perfect place to learn to ride, or to completely relax. The 15 rooms are traditionaland fairly simple while the service is welcoming,and the food homely and typical of the region. In the grounds is a nine hole golf course, tenniscourts and a small pool to relax by. For thosewith an interest in polo, there are three fields and a polo school with top quality horses.Around Buenos AiresIt is worth exploring the leafy suburbs in thenorth of Buenos Aires, particularly San Isidro andOlivos (which is home to an excellent golfcourse), both served by the Tren de la Costarailway, which is popular with the locals. Furthernorth is Tigre, a small town about 30 kilometresfrom Buenos Aires at the mouth of the RiverPlate delta, and accessible by a leisurely boat trip.Heading west or south will bring you into thegreat grass and cattle lands of the pampas whichstretch, drum-flat, around the city. It is on thisland that the legendary gauchos do their work onthe estancias (see feature on page 86), here are acouple of our favourites where you can stay for aretreat from the city.84Gaucho drinking traditional matéArgentina flagGauchos on an estanciaCandelaria del Monte