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Iguazú FallsThe most dramatic waterfalls in the world tumbleover the cliffs at the border of Argentina andBrazil. It is said that Argentina provides the showand Brazil enjoys the view, and certainly the morepanoramic walkways are on the Brazilian side.However, a visit to the Argentine side is a mustas it is here that you can get up close andpersonal with the falls. Nature is showcased at itsfiercest in the foaming cauldron of the Devil'sThroat, where several falls join together to hurtledown a sheer drop, a dizzying view is providedfrom your catwalk vantage point. The falls alsoshowcase nature at its most beautiful, as greenjungle and blue sky combine with white waterand rainbows to ensure that your walks along thetwisting paths above and below the falls provide a photo opportunity at every turn.ACCOMMODATIONATIGUAZÚFALLSThere are limited hotel options by the waterfallsthemselves, with just two hotels situated withinthe national park, one on the Argentine side andone on the Brazilian side. The luxurious SheratonResort & Spa is on the Argentine side and ispriced according to its privileged location. Outsideof the park and a car journey away from the fallslie a selection of good hotels ranging in price andstandard, we like the Loi Suites, the Aldea de laSelva, Puerto Bemberg and the Amerian.Córdoba and aroundIn the heart of Argentina, midway between theAndes and the Atlantic coast, lies the city ofCórdoba, which is surrounded by somespectacular hilly landscapes. The city itself is oneof the oldest in Argentina, although the majorityof the architecture is now modern. Howeverthere is an interesting tour that takes in thecolonial religious buildings that remain. Theprimary reason for visiting this area, however, is to spend some time at one of the wonderfulestancias that lie out of the city. LOSPOTREROS, NEARCÓRDOBAEstancia Los Potreros is a delightful family-ownedfarm high in the Cordoban hills, where you havethe unique opportunity to live amongst threegenerations of the Anglo-Argentine owners, andexperience rural life on a working cattle ranch.Because of the house's remote location, perchedatop the sierras, the views from foot orhorseback are spectacular, and you have over 600 acres of private land to roam around andexplore. There is also an outdoor swimming pool,and after all that fresh air, you will appreciate thedelicious home-cooked food (all guests take theirmeals together) and the comfort of the en suitebedrooms, which are simple, but individual, as you would expect from this private home.www.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina85Asado, Estancia Los PotrerosIguazú FallsELCOLÍBRI, NEARCÓRDOBAA colonial-style mansion which combinestraditional materials and state-of-the-art comfort,the nine rooms, including three suites, all havedifferent beautifully hand-painted designs. It's agreat place to enjoy polo, horse riding, trekking or mountain biking. Nearby you have theopportunity to play golf, birdwatch and fish, aswell as visit the Jesuit site of Santa Catalina, which is just ten minutes away by car. magnificent horsemanship. This is an aspect of estancia life that has been put to good usefor visitors and allows amazing opportunities to live that childhood cowboy dream! Youcould have a short trot around an estancia (in a horse-drawn carriage if you don't fancyriding yourself), learn to play a game of polo,or take a horseback trek of many days out into the wilderness, it is even possible totraverse the Andes. The experienceIn terms of the accommodation at theestancias, the differences between them canbe as vast as the distances that separate them.Many of the properties are ancient familyhomes that have only recently opened theirdoors to visitors while others have beenpurpose-built as country hotels. While theolder estancias give you a great sense ofhistory their newer counterparts are oftenaimed at the more luxurious end of themarket. However all will have sweepinggrounds, horses and gauchos. A visit or a stayat an estancia, wherever it is in the country,will most likely be based around three things -food, including the obligatory 'asado'(barbeque) lunch; drink, including thetraditional maté and wine; and horses. With a lack of beach destinations in Argentina,estancias also fulfil the role of being a place tocome and relax. Beautifully trimmed gardenssurrounding swimming pools and the 'makeyourself at home' approach of many ownersprovides a lovely opportunity to take it easyduring your Argentina trip.We like to recommend estancias that havesome history, be it in the buildings, or in theanecdotes of the owners, and we particularlylike, wherever possible, to use workingestancias, such as Huechahue and LosPotreros, where the owners still carry out theday to day work of running their farmalongside welcoming guests, providing a trulyauthentic experience. You will find ourfavourites dotted through the Argentina pages of this brochure.The gauchoOne of the Argentina's most iconic inhabitantsis the rugged gaucho - the cowboy. Life andthe weather can be harsh in the scarcelypopulated wilderness that covers much of thecentre and south of the country, and the jobof herding cattle and sheep and of maintainingthe farmland could only fall to a horseman ofthe utmost skill and resilience. Enter thelegendary gaucho, woollen beret low over hisears against the wind, skin wind- and sun-burntto a deep leathery texture and a love of theoutdoors in his blood. The estanciaThe gauchos' homes are the estancias, largefarming estates that powered the Argentineeconomy through its early 20th centuryheyday, many of which today combine theiragricultural work with welcoming travellers,either for relaxation or to witness (or join in)the cattle rearing, sheep shearing andhorseback herding, or to watch and play polo.The gauchos and their estancias are an integralpart of the culture of Argentina. The horsesHistory has seen the gaucho and the estanciasthrough many incarnations, but whatever rolethe gauchos have played they have always hadone thing in common and that is theirGauchos and estancias86Gauchos at Estancia Los PotrerosTypical estancia, Patagonia |