HOTELDELVIRREY, SALTAWell located in the centre of Salta and very close to the main street with its bars and peñas(traditional venues featuring folkloric dancing), thisis a small and comfortable hotel decorated in atraditional colonial style with friendly staff and anintimate atmosphere.HOUSEOFJASMINES, NEARSALTAThe House of Jasmines is located in rollingfarmland close to the city of Salta but feels manymiles away from it all. Luxuriously comfortablerooms, plus a spa and cosy communal areas andbalcony dining, all mean a pampered stay isguaranteed. Guests can saddle up and ride intothe surrounding mountains or simply stay in thegrounds to relax.LEGADOMITICO, SALTAComfortable and interesting accommodation in a central location, the Legado Mitico has 11 largerooms, each with classy decoration based on anArgentine historical figure. All have small balconies,and the hotel has a delightful central courtyard. Purmamarca and aroundHeading north out of Salta you'll pass giant cacti,grazing vicuña, sculpted rocks and mountainsstriped red, amber, coffee and ochre until youreach dazzling salt flats and impossibly tinysettlements at nearly 4,000 metres above sealevel. Purmamarca, a small village set below theHill of Seven Colours, is the base to travel furthernorth into the awe-inspiring scenery of theHumahuaca Gorge, visiting quiet oasis villages, the ruins of a hilltop fortress, exquisite churchesand some of the most important archaeologicalsites in the country. The 'Train to the Clouds' isone way of experiencing all of this amazingscenery in a day, travelling along a railtrack that isnothing short of an engineering marvel, but itsoperation tends to be intermittent. Other optionsinclude travelling by jeep close to the same route,or making your own way around by hire car. Ifyou wish to combine Argentina with Chile, wecan organise for you to cross the high puna fromthis point into the Chilean Atacama Desert, in aheady day's journey by road.The NorthwestUp in this far-flung corner of Argentina lie somegreat and magnificent swathes of land, whichscenically and culturally have more in commonwith Argentina's Andean neighbours than themodern, European influenced areas further south.A variety of landscapes await - a lunar vista northof the city of Salta, a place of ochre desertsdotted with cacti, and gorges striped with manydifferent hues. South of Salta there are green rivervalleys and vineyards mixed into the dry foothillsof the Andes. Exploring this area can be asenergetic or relaxed as you would like; you canbase yourself in one place and go out for the day,or you can move about the countryside on aroad trip, staying at some of the excellent hotelson the way. SaltaSalta, known locally as 'Salta La Linda' (Salta thebeautiful), is the starting point for explorations of the northwest, but is an interesting place initself to explore for at least a day or two. It hasan enviable location in the picturesque LermaValley, and has striking architecture, includingsome of Argentina's few colonial buildings. Itsleafy plazas, including the main focalpoint of thecity, the Plaza 9 de Julio, are a great place topeople watch from the cafes. 88San Francisco Church, SaltaThe journey between Salta and Cafayate

ELMANANTIALDELSILENCIO,PURMAMARCAFacing the Hill of Seven Colours is the charmingEl Manantial del Silencio, a property simplydecorated in keeping with the building's whitecolonial style, with flagstone flooring, huge rugsunderfoot, and a serene feel. The hotel is set inits own large gardens, with enormous windows inthe restaurant allowing diners to appreciate therural views while tucking into the trademark llamamedallions.LACOMARCA, PURMAMARCABuilt completely in keeping with the style of therest of the town and even reflecting the coloursof the surrounding mountains, La Comarca is alovely and relaxing place. The rooms are spaciousand comfortable with traditional furniture.CABAÑASDELCOLORADO,PURMAMARCAThese cabins are almost completely camouflagedby the red rock that looms behind them. Fromthe outside they look like simple mud huts butinside they are very comfortable apartments withgreat decor and their own kitchenette. From thehotel it is only a five minute walk into the littletown of Purmamarca or to the famous Hill ofSeven Colours.Cafayate, Molinos and CachiSouth of Salta lies the stunning Calchaquí Valley, a place of sun dappled vineyards, and the townsof Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi, all of which havesomething to offer the visitor, be it archaeologicalmuseums, adobe churches and, most of all, manywineries. The foothills of the Andes here, as withMendoza, provide fantastic soils for wineproduction. There are several vineyards andwineries that can be toured, and many types ofwine to be tasted. This is an area to explore atleisure, taking roads which wind through mountain passes above which condors glide, or head arrow-straight through the vine-clad hills.Travel around this area can be done with a guideand driver, or with your own self-drive vehiclealong the famous Ruta 40 (see the self-drivefeature on page 91).LAMERCEDDELALTO, CACHIOn the edge of the small town of Cachi, LaMerced del Alto has the air of a traditionalmonastery, despite being a purpose builtproperty. The effect is startlingly good with coolhigh-ceilinged rooms and immaculately keptgrounds. There is a great restaurant and bar inthe main building while the grounds are home to the pool, Jacuzzi and spa.www.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina89ESTANCIACOLOMÉ, MOLINOSEstancia Colomé is a charming property with astunning location in the heart of this beautiful partof Argentina. It is set amid extensive vineyards andgrounds where guests can ride horses, trek, cycleor just relax with a good glass of wine. Theproperty has a cosy library and attractive patiosand its nine rooms are tastefully decorated. Withinthe grounds is a museum with a collection of art,plus it is possible to visit the Bodega Colomé.LACASADELABODEGA, NEARCAFAYATEA simple option in this beautiful part of thecountry, La Casa de la Bodega offers goodaccommodation in eight rooms, most with viewsto the vineyards. There is ample communal space,and your hosts will be delighted to show youaround their vineyards and winery.PATIOSDECAFAYATE, CAFAYATEPatios de Cafayate Hotel & Spa enjoys spectacularviews of the Calchaquí Valley vineyards, and isdesigned with an emphasis on unique and localdesigns which highlight the traditional cultures ofthe area. The hotel has extensive gardens andantique colonial patios, and the 26 guest roomsare decorated with antique furniture. Guests canenjoy the hotel's spa facilities and outdoor pool orjust sit under a tree with a glass of fine wine andenjoy the wonderful views. An 18 hole golf courseis five minutes away.Purmamarca and the Hill of Seven ColoursCacti in the Humahuaca GorgeVineyards near CafayateSalt flats, near PurmamarcaPatios de Cafayate, Cafayate