century. For the really adventurous it ispossible to drive deeper into the vastPatagonian wilderness by following Ruta 40south to El Calafate and on until it can go nofurther - at the world's most southerly city ofUshuaia the road stops at the Beagle Channel.Península ValdésThis bulbous lump of featureless Patagoniandesert jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean ishome to some of the most spectacular wildlifeviewing opportunities in South America, fromMagellanic penguins and elephant seals to themajestic southern right whales. As a self-drivedestination the freedom that a car offers couldbe invaluable - there is only one road aroundthe peninsula making it impossible to get lostand travelling at your own pace allows youspend all day on one beach waiting for thatmagical moment when an orca might surf upthe beach and grab a sea lion.As it is the eighth largest country in the world,exploring all of Argentina's vast swathes ofland by car is not an option for most visitors,but there are wonderful pockets of thecountry that make for excellent self-drive toursfor those who like to be independent, andhave an adventurous spirit. It is not for thefaint-hearted however, and experience isessential; many roads are gravel, sign posts arenot especially common and local drivers arenot known for their adherence to the rules ofthe road. A lot of the driving is on or aroundArgentina's famous Ruta 40 (Route 40), a roadthat travels more or less the length of thecountry, and it was along stretches of thisroute that a young Ernesto 'Che' Guevaratravelled by motorbike, his diaries reveal thatmuch of what he saw along the route fired his revolutionary spirit.Self-drive in ArgentinaPatagonian road, near El Chalténwww.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina91Northwest ArgentinaThe northwest of the country offers perhapsthe most dramatic experience for the self-driver. There is a logical route running southfrom Salta, the first part of which takes youthrough an ever-changing landscape to Cachi.Along the way you'll pass through sheer-sidedvalleys, open farmland, small pockets of jungleand ochre desert, whilst condors circleeffortlessly on the thermals above the whiteadobe houses of the small villages you pass.From Cachi you follow Ruta 40, into the wineregion that surrounds Cafayate. On the edgeof the desert you will find the wineries thatproduce some of the country's mostinteresting wines. Not far from here isQuilmes, the location of some stunning Jesuitruins and home to the nation's favourite beer.PatagoniaNestling in the heart of Argentina's LakeDistrict is a lovely journey that links the smalltown of San Martín de los Andes to its biggerneighbour, Bariloche. The trip is known as the'Route of the Seven Lakes', and apart from thelakes, it also winds through picturesque,forested hills. Continuing south from Barilocheit is possible to pick up Ruta 40 to travel intothe heart of Welsh Patagonia and the towns of Trevelín and Esquel. Here you will find thePatagonian Express steam train that has beenrunning through the region for nearly aLake District roadTypical Patagonian road

BarilocheBariloche is the main centre of the southern Lake District and an ideal base from which toexplore the abundance of pristine national parksthroughout this area. The town has an Alpine feel(in the winter it becomes a popular ski resort)and a wide range of accommodation options,meaning it has many more visitors than its smallernorthern neighbour, San Martín de los Andes. In Bariloche you can take a chairlift ride to soakup panoramic views of lakes and volcanoesstretching as far as the eye can see, go hiking andpicnicking along woodland trails, raft in the localrivers, or explore at your own pace with a hirecar. Another breathtakingly scenic route acrossthe Chilean border starts in Bariloche: the LakeCrossing takes you by road and a succession oflake ferries to the town of Puerto Varas.PEUMAHUE, NEARBARILOCHEBuilt on the shores of Lake Gutierrez, and setinside the idyllic landscapes of Nahuel HuapiNational Park, Hostería Peuma Hue is a uniqueaccommodation option just outside Bariloche. Its grounds include three kilometres of lakeshoreat the foot of a steep mountain, with pristineforests, streams and waterfalls, and many acres of valley and forest for wandering at leisure. The accommodation itself is a charming personalblend of rusticity and comfort with the fourwooden buildings containing 12 guest rooms.LOSJUNCOS, NEARBARILOCHEA hidden treasure located 20 kilometres fromBariloche and overlooking some of the mostbeautiful scenery in the region, Los Juncos is awonderfully informal place to stay where you willimmediately be made to feel at home by thehosts. With just five rooms it has a relaxed andfriendly atmosphere.HOTELALDEBARÁN, NEARBARILOCHELocated on the San Pedro Peninsula, 23 kilometresfrom the town of Bariloche, the Aldebarán issurrounded by lush scenery. The property has tenwell-appointed rooms overlooking the NahuelHuapi Lake. The restaurant is highlyrecommended, and has a wood-fired mud ovenused for preparing gourmet dishes, and traditionalArgentine barbeques are also offered. There is aspa equipped with hydro-massage, massage roomand sauna, plus health and beauty treatments.Lake DistrictOn the northern edge of Patagonia, Argentina'sLake District is a beautiful area of glacial lakes,emerald forests and extinct snow-cappedvolcanoes. Often compared to the picture-perfectscenery of Switzerland because of its clean, crispair, abundance of flowers and glittering waters,this region nonetheless has a very distinct flavourthat is all its own. There are three areas of theLake District that are most often visited:Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and, betweenthe two, the chic resort of Villa La Angostura.92Lake District sceneryPeuma Hue, near BarilocheNahuel Huapi Lake, Bariloche