ELCASCO, NEARBARILOCHE11 kilometres from Bariloche, Hotel El Casco has33 rooms with spectacular views across NahuelHuapi Lake. The rooms are all well equipped andeach boasts beautiful pieces of art by prestigiousArgentinian artists, the gardens of the hotel alsohave displays of over 40 sculptures. The healthclub has an excellent range of facilities including a fantastic outdoor/indoor swimming pool andthe restaurant offers elaborate cuisine designed by a top Argentinian chef.LASBALSAS, VILLALAANGOSTURALas Balsas Gourmet Hotel & Spa is an exclusiveretreat on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi thatis designed to give its guests the ultimate inpampered comfort and peace. In the wintermonths (June to August) the hotel is a great base for ski trips in the surrounding area.LAESCONDIDA, VILLALAANGUSTURALuxurious yet relaxed and informal, La Escondidahas a crisp modern design in both the buildingand decoration. Located on the shores of LakeNahuel Huapi, the property is ideally placed forexcursions into the surrounding countryside, orfor simply relaxing and enjoying the view.San Martín de los AndesThis is great horse riding country and there areseveral trails ranging from a day to a week ormore that are highly recommended forexperienced horse-riders. The area also has somelovely estancias, including Estancia Huechahue(see below), from where you can ride into thespectacular Lanín National Park, and TipiliukeLodge, a great place for riding and fly-fishing. Inthe town itself we like Casa Eugenia, a good valueoption with a simple charm.ESTANCIAHUECHAHUE, NEARSANMARTÍNDELOSANDESAbout 70 kilometres east of San Martín de losAndes lies the working estancia of Huechahue.Explore the beautiful scenery on horseback, ridingthrough vast expanses of meadow to the base ofthe Andes and watch condors and eagles soaringover ancient Indian burial caves where primitivedrawings can still be seen on the walls. You canjoin the gauchos working the cattle and enjoy atraditional barbecue lunch, the asado, or spend asunny day rafting down the river, stopping forlunch and a swim in a calm pool or try fishing for the famed wild trout.www.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina93Península Valdés and aroundThis wild and treeless tag of land, loosely linked to the mainland and reaching out into the SouthAtlantic, is a UNESCO-protected nature reservethat is home to a large variety of wildlife. Whales,penguins and elephant seals make up part of theprofusion of marine life, whilst guanacos, rheasand armadillos roam around on the land.Southern right whales can be spotted during theirbreeding season of June to November, orca maybe spotted from November to April, and Augustto October is the best time to observe theelephant seals. There are estancias where you canstay on the isthmus itself, or base yourself in thetown of Puerto Madryn, which in 1865 was thesite of the first Welsh landing in the area. Theirlegacy remains today: Welsh-speakers, tearoomsand Eisteddfods add a distinctive cultural flavourto the region. Another attraction is the noisycolony of Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo.Wild flowers near BarilocheVilla La AngosturaSouthern right whale, off Península ValdésSea lions, Península ValdésMagellanic penguins, Punta Tombo

PATAGONIAREBELDE, ELCALAFATEBuilt in the style of an old railway station, andresembling a museum more than a hotel,Patagonia Rebelde is a unique property offeringvalue and charm. Its eight small rooms are locatedon the second floor, as the first floor is given over to the lounge and bar. This is an unusual and quirky property that sheds light on the historyof this area of Patagonia.EOLO, NEARELCALAFATELocated 30 kilometres from El Calafate on a hillrising above the Anita Valley is the Eolo Lodge,perched on 3,000 hectares of its own land. Thelodge affords beautiful views across LagoArgentino and on a clear day, as far as Chile'sfamous Torres del Paine. Based on the style of atraditional Patagonian estancia with a moderntwist, Eolo's 17 rooms are comfortable and stylish,whilst its communal living areas are ideal places toenjoy the talks about the local flora and fauna orjust to curl up with a book and relax.LOSNOTROS, PERITOMORENOGLACIERLos Notros has a privileged location opposite the dramatic Perito Moreno Glacier. Named aftera flower that grows locally, Los Notros has 32rooms, many of which have views over the laketo the glacier. They are decorated with antiquefurniture and pictures, and so have a rustic feel.The terrace is a wonderful location to relax witha drink and admire the lake and glacier view.Perito Moreno and Los Glaciares National ParkThe magnificent centrepiece of Los GlaciaresNational Park is the creaking hulk of ice that is the Perito Moreno Glacier. Its age-old turquoisefolds and white peaks have advanced into LagoArgentino, pausing for now in a frontage that isfive kilometres across and 60 metres high. Froman observation platform or a boat a safe distanceaway, listen for an eerie creak which indicates alarge chunk of ice is about to calve off and crashnoisily into the milky waters of Lago Argentino,where it then drifts idly away. For a different view, we can arrange trekking on the glacier itself where the crunchy meringue-like ice ispunctuated by glowing sapphire crevasses. Other glaciers worth a visit are those of Upsalaand Onelli, visited on a day trip out by boat tothe northwestern end of Lago Argentino. Yourbase for excursions in this area of the park will be around the glacier itself, or in and around the thriving town of El Calafate.94Perito Moreno Glacier, El CalafatePatagonia Rebelde, El CalafateEolo, near El Calafate