PATAGONIAREBELDE, ELCALAFATEBuilt in the style of an old railway station, andresembling a museum more than a hotel,Patagonia Rebelde is a unique property offeringvalue and charm. Its eight small rooms are locatedon the second floor, as the first floor is given over to the lounge and bar. This is an unusual and quirky property that sheds light on the historyof this area of Patagonia.EOLO, NEARELCALAFATELocated 30 kilometres from El Calafate on a hillrising above the Anita Valley is the Eolo Lodge,perched on 3,000 hectares of its own land. Thelodge affords beautiful views across LagoArgentino and on a clear day, as far as Chile'sfamous Torres del Paine. Based on the style of atraditional Patagonian estancia with a moderntwist, Eolo's 17 rooms are comfortable and stylish,whilst its communal living areas are ideal places toenjoy the talks about the local flora and fauna orjust to curl up with a book and relax.LOSNOTROS, PERITOMORENOGLACIERLos Notros has a privileged location opposite the dramatic Perito Moreno Glacier. Named aftera flower that grows locally, Los Notros has 32rooms, many of which have views over the laketo the glacier. They are decorated with antiquefurniture and pictures, and so have a rustic feel.The terrace is a wonderful location to relax witha drink and admire the lake and glacier view.Perito Moreno and Los Glaciares National ParkThe magnificent centrepiece of Los GlaciaresNational Park is the creaking hulk of ice that is the Perito Moreno Glacier. Its age-old turquoisefolds and white peaks have advanced into LagoArgentino, pausing for now in a frontage that isfive kilometres across and 60 metres high. Froman observation platform or a boat a safe distanceaway, listen for an eerie creak which indicates alarge chunk of ice is about to calve off and crashnoisily into the milky waters of Lago Argentino,where it then drifts idly away. For a different view, we can arrange trekking on the glacier itself where the crunchy meringue-like ice ispunctuated by glowing sapphire crevasses. Other glaciers worth a visit are those of Upsalaand Onelli, visited on a day trip out by boat tothe northwestern end of Lago Argentino. Yourbase for excursions in this area of the park will be around the glacier itself, or in and around the thriving town of El Calafate.94Perito Moreno Glacier, El CalafatePatagonia Rebelde, El CalafateEolo, near El Calafate

El Chaltén & FitzroyEl Chaltén is a small village at the northern tip ofLos Glaciares National Park that acts as a base for the climbing and hiking visitors to the FitzroyMassif. It has a relaxed and friendly feel, with aninteresting mix of architectural styles and afabulous setting. The surrounding area ischallenging but rewarding trekking country, withthe 3,400 metre Mount Fitzroy as its jaggedcentrepiece, a stark and soaring piece of granite.For accommodation options we like the cosy,good value Hosteria El Puma, or for something a little more luxurious, Los Cerros.Ushuaia & Tierra del FuegoThe Andes finally slide into the sea at the bottom of the archipelago at the very tip ofSouth America. The name of the biggest island is Tierra del Fuego, 'Land of Fire', which conjures up images of frothing waves, howlinggales and isolation, and whilst this is not entirely the case, the area certainly has a windyend-of-the-world feel. The heart of the island is the lively city of Ushuaia,whose colourful houses spill down from the sidesof imposing snowy mountains before stoppingabruptly at the shores of the icy Beagle Channel.Ushuaia is the base for exploring the region'sattractions such as Lapataia National Park, the'Train to the End of the World' in Tierra delFuego National Park, trips out with the seabirdson the Beagle Channel, and also a visit to thehistoric Estancia Harberton which was built by aBritish missionary on one of the farthest outposts of the continent. There is a range ofaccommodation options in and around the city,catering to a variety of tastes and budgets.www.audleytravel.com/argentina ?01993 838 630 ?Argentina95Cruising from UshuaiaUshuaia is the embarkation anddisembarkation point for many curiousand intrepid travellers. The CrucerosAustralis cruise operation (see page 110)takes its guests on a winding routearound the bays and inlets of thisdramatic area of glaciers and wildlife. For more adventure, Ushuaia is also the starting point for trips down to the'White Continent' of Antarctica (see pages 120-122).Mount FitzroyLighthouse, UshuaiaLupins, UshuaiaUshuaiaPerito Moreno GlacierWalking near Mount Fitzroy