now opened its doors to visitors, and thestunning scenery and engaging White Thaiinhabitants make stopping here a trulymemorable experience. The best way to explorethe simple and tranquil villages dotted aroundthe area is by hopping on a bicycle: a fantasticway to discover traditional village life in full swing.You will not have to stray far to encounter bothMong and H'mong people, and you are likely tostumble across women weaving under theirhouses, children playing in the streams and localfarmers at work with their water buffaloes. Themost comfortable accommodation option is theMai Chau Lodge. It has a good location close totown, but there is also the option of a homestayto consider. Although facilities are basic, thisprovides an opportunity to gain an insight intothe lives of the local people.Ninh BinhLikened to an inland Halong Bay, Ninh Binh'sattraction is in its limestone karst topography.With rivers that snake through cave formationsand farmers tending their fields with waterbuffaloes, the scenery around Ninh Binh iscompelling. Although spectacular, Tam Coc is the most notorious of the region's caves forbeing a tourist trap, swamped by over-zealousvendors peddling their wares. For this reason we avoid it and visit other equally impressivecave formations, where local guides will gentlyrow you through a network of waterways outinto lakes dwarfed by limestone mountains. You can also visit the remains of the ancientcitadel and temples at the nearby settlement ofHoa Lua, once the capital of Vietnam, as well as exploring the Cuc Phuong National Park.Within a two hour drive of Hanoi it is possibleto visit Ninh Binh as a day trip, but we wouldencourage you to stay a night or two to unearththis intriguing and charming area.ANAMANDARA, NINHBINHAna Mandara's 172 rooms are arranged in low-level clusters of 16 to resemble traditionalNorthern Vietnamese villages. Each cluster hasits own pool and barbecue area and a dramaticbackdrop of the area's imposing mountains andkarsts. The architecture blends earthen walls,terracotta tiles and interior wooden beams withintricate hand carvings. Being perfectly located to access the Van Long nature reserve, the Ana Mandara is a great base for making themost of the surrounding area and the wealth ofoutdoor pursuits on offer. There is also a spa,which offers a wide range of therapies andpampering treatments.Northwest VietnamArguably one of the most beautiful areas ofIndochina, Northwest Vietnam offers the moreadventurous traveller an authentic taste oftraditional hill tribe life. The mountains risedramatically from the fertile plains, and thenumerous rivers and streams provide idealconditions for the terraced paddy fields tothrive. Woven into this landscape are the simplehouses of the ethnic minorities, who continue tolive a lifestyle that has remained unchanged forcenturies. Discover the small town of Lai Chau,the remote villages of Sinho and Paso, and thefamed Dien Bien Phu, the battlefield where theVietnamese first broke France's colonial grip. Ifpossible, we will time your trip to coincide withat least one local market, a sociable affair asvillagers arrive from their settlements to tradegoods and wares.Mai ChauAn isolated farming community until 1993 whenthe first travellers visited this area, Mai Chau hasNorthern Vietnam12Rice paddies, Ninh Binh ProvinceBlack H'mong women, Mai ChauAna Mandara, Ninh Binh

www.audleytravel.com/vietnam ?01993 838 140 ?Vietnam13Ha GiangNestled in the far northeast of Vietnam on theborder with southwest China lies the timelessworld of Ha Giang. Until recently, it has beencut off from visitors by the VietnameseGovernment and has therefore escaped therelentless march of modernisation. Terraced ricepaddies, primary forests, winding mountain pathsthat climb through vertiginous passes to reachcolourfully-dressed minority tribes, some ofwhom have never been documented: Ha Giangoffers visitors a glimpse of bygone Vietnam. The lively local markets form the lifeblood ofthe province and villagers in traditional dressgather from miles around to trade, eat andgossip. Our itineraries are designed aroundthese events. Accommodation in the area is of a fairly basic level, so we have set up a numberof excellent homestay opportunities givingvisitors the chance to fully experience the life of the local people.Hidden Ha GiangJourney off the beaten track into this beautifulregion, where local markets and numerous colourfulminority tribes vie for attention with picturesquevillages that lie scattered throughout the province. A few long drives and simple accommodation arerewarded with stunning views and a chance toexperience undiscovered Vietnam.Day 1Fly from the UK to Hanoi via Bangkok.Day 2Arrive in Hanoi.Day 3Explore Hanoi with your guide.Day 4Enjoy a walking tour of the OldQuarter before catching your overnighttrain to Lao Cai.Day 5Arrive in Lao Cai and transfer to BacHa. Spend the afternoon walking tovillages near the town.Day 6Drive to Hoang Su Phi, via theWednesday market at Sin Cheng,passing spectacular rice terraces.Day 7Spend the day exploring thesurrounding countryside.Day 8Continue overland to Ha Giang City.Day 9Full day drive to Dong Van.Day 10Return to Ha Giang via the bustlingmorning market of Dong Van and thebusy town of Meo Vac.Day 11Spend the day exploring thesurrounding countryside.Day 12Full day drive to Hanoi.Day 13After a leisurely breakfast, fly toBangkok for an overnight stay.Day 14Fly back to the UK.Stay longerThis itinerary can be combined with travel intoSouthwest China, crossing the border at Lao Cai.On return to Hanoi you may also consider aleisurely two-night cruise in Halong Bay or a flightsouth to relax on one of Vietnam's many beaches.Sapa and the Tonkinese AlpsThe small French hill station of Sapa nestlesamong the stunning scenery of the TonkineseAlps. Easy day walks pass through terracedpaddy fields to reach H'mong and Dao minorityvillages, where traditional dress is still worn andancient beliefs hold sway. There are a numberof trains that run from Hanoi to Lao Cai, thetransit town for Sapa. Currently the mostcomfortable option is the Victoria Express, withtwo or four berth cabins that, while not ensuite, are tastefully decorated and provideadequate facilities for the journey. When youarrive, Sapa's Victoria Hotel is the best hotel inthe region, with comfortable rooms and a rangeof facilities. Alternatively, you may prefer theremote but stunning location of the TopasEcolodge, perched atop a hillside with stunningvistas of the surrounding valleys. The lodgeoperates on sound ecotourism principles and is also a great base for exploring some of themore remote villages.Flower H'mong girls on a bridge in SapaFlower H'mong, Bac Ha marketYoung girl, Ha GiangRice terraces, Ha GiangLAOSVIETNAMHanoiHaGiangDongVanSin ChenMeoVacLao CaiBacHaHoang Su PhiSapaCHINA