Ilocos regionThe capital of the Ilocos region is Laoag. You canfly here from Manila to explore this area, and it isa good starting point for exploring some of thenorthern coastline. Ilocos is also home to theUNESCO World Heritage town of Vigan.Founded as a trading town in 1572 by theSpanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo, Vigan isnow one of the best remaining examples ofSpanish colonial architecture in the Philippines:unlike Manila and Cebu it was not damagedduring WWII. The best time to visit is the firstweek in May, when the town comes alive for the Viva Vigan festival.Southern LuzonThere are some great places to visit in SouthernLuzon if you want to get away from the hustleand bustle of Manila. The Hidden Valley is set inthe crater of an extinct volcano. In tranquilwooded surroundings, the five basins of naturalspring water here make for good swimming.Close by, Villa Escuedero is a colonial coconutplantation where you can enjoy carabao-drawncart rides, native folk music entertainment andbamboo rafting. You can also have lunch by theLebasin Falls, where the tables are set in the rivershallows so that your feet are cooled by runningwater while you eat. Corregidor Island in Subic Bay was America's lastbastion during the 1941 Japanese invasion ofLuzon and is reached on a fast ferry from Manila.One of its highlights is the sound and light showwhich takes place in the Malinta Tunnel. Also onthe island, you can visit General McArthur'sheadquarters, the mile-long barracks, the gunbattalions and the Spanish lighthouse, which offersgood views over Manila Bay. Pagsanjan and the magnificent Magdapio Falls havelong been a popular day trip from Manila. NearbyTaal Volcano has a reputation as one of theworld's smallest yet most active volcanoes, withfrequent rumbles emanating from its three visiblecraters. There are several viewpoints out overTaal Lake, but it is also possible to climb thewww.audleytravel.com/philippines ?01993 838 155 ?Philippines143Ifugao man, BanaueTaal Volcano crater lakeCrisologo street at dusk, ViganTaal Basilica, Taal townChild and carabao, near Villa Escuederovolcano itself if it isn't too active at the time. Not far from here is Taal town, an appealingplace with a number of Spanish colonial buildingsand the biggest church in Asia.COUNTRYSUITES, NEARLAKETAALThis small property is comprised of seven themedsuites, each representing a different region fromaround the world. There is a small garden withviews over Taal Lake and a shared Jacuzzi.Despite the cooler climate, the hotel offers awarm welcome, an open kitchen, tea time cheeseand wine tasting and open fireplaces: it is afriendly and homely place to stay.Pagsanjan FallsShips at sunset on Manila Bay

certainly one of the smallest primates in theworld. There is a tarsier sanctuary on Bohol andthe creatures can also be seen in their naturalhabitat on Panglao Island. Panglao is also knownfor its fine beaches and excellent diving amongstblack coral forests, shoals of hammerhead sharksand an occasional visiting dolphin. It's best to visitfrom March to May, when festivals erupt in thesmall towns and villages. The island can bereached by ferry from Cebu or Dumaguete or a short flight from Manila.AMORITA, BOHOLLocated overlooking the white sand beach ofAlona, Amorita is a small resort of 20 rooms and14 villas. It offers comfortable accommodation setin cliff-top gardens, but the beach isn't far: just 23steps down. With an infinity pool, a restaurant forall-day dining and a pool-side juice bar, this is amost relaxing place.Negros OrientalThe capital of Negros Oriental, Dumaguete, isdominated by the Sumilon university campus.There are in fact four universities in the city, and the high number of students in the areacontribute to a young and laid-back atmosphere.The main reason to come here is to reach thenearby dive sites. You are most likely to stay innearby Dauin. A day trip from Dauin orDumaguete, Apo island is a small, volcanic islandrenowned for its diving and snorkelling. There issome simple accommodation on the island, butmost people visit for the day to explore themarine reserve and fish sanctuary. The island hasa population of 1,000 and as you make your waybetween dive sites you pass through small villagesand meet locals.ATMOSPHERE, DAUINSituated within an old five acre coconutplantation, Atmosphere boasts eight spaciousboutique style suites, four garden apartments andtwo penthouses. From the infinity pool you canenjoy views of the beach and sea and there isalso an excellent spa and a fine dining restaurant.English hosts Gabby and Matthew designed andbuilt the property and will make sure you havethe perfect stay.Visayas archipelagoThe Visayas stretch from Boracay in the north to Apo Island in the south and the islands in thisgroup are home to fantastic snorkelling and diving, beautiful beaches, centuries old Spanishchurches, pristine national parks and a warmwelcome. It is easy to arrange an island hoppingitinerary to cover many of the highlights using the local ferry network. Bohol and Panglao IslandImmortalised on countless Filipino postcards, theChocolate Hills of Bohol are an unforgettablesight, at once charming and enthralling as theybump across the landscape. In all there are 1,268perfectly rounded hills, green for most of the year but turning brown as they dry betweenNovember and May. An unusual resident of theisland is the Tarsier monkey, one of the mostendangered and - at 10 centimetres in length -144Scuba diving, Apo IslandAtmosphere, DauinLoboc river, Bohol Island