MAISONSOUVANNAPHOUM,LUANGPRABANGOnce home to Laotian royalty, the MaisonSouvannaphoum is a charming option for a stay in Luang Prabang. The hotel offers a choice oftastefully decorated rooms, with four suites in theoriginal building, including the Maison Suite whichwas once the bedroom of Prince Souvanaphoumahimself, and more contemporary-styled rooms inthe garden wing. There is an excellent restaurantserving a choice of French and Laotian cuisine inpleasant surroundings, while a spa and a smallswimming pool give guests ample opportunity torelax and unwind within manicured gardens. Thehotel is only a short walk from Luang Prabang'snight market and the temples, cafes andrestaurants of the town.www.audleytravel.com/laos ?01993 838 125 ?Laos43Around Luang PrabangLuang Prabang is surrounded by spectacularscenery that offers the opportunity for somegreat trekking, river trips and elephantexperiences. Within the area, a couple ofexcellent sanctuaries have been set up whereyou can gain an insight into the traditional lifeof an elephant trainer (mahout). The campsprovide rehabilitation for the animals thathave previously worked in logging, as well asproviding jobs for local villagers. Guests canundertake a full day mahout course, whereyou try your hand at commanding and caringfor your elephant, or take shorter rides onelephant back through the beautiful valleyssurrounding Luang Prabang. There is also theopportunity to take in some magnificentwaterfalls and trek in the footsteps of the18th century explorers who mapped out theregion. There are several different choices ofaccommodation, ranging from simple lodgesto more luxurious camps with breathtakingviews of the valley. Make time to visit the excellent Big BrotherMouse project set up to encourage Laotianchildren to read. Here you can purchase Lao books for distribution at some of thesmall minority villages in the rural areasaround Luang Prabang. For those who want a more hands-on experience and with a littlemore time in an itinerary, you can get involved with community English lessons, runby a young Laotian man who established theproject for his own village. If your time in Laos is limited and yoursightseeing is restricted to Luang Prabang, acruise along the beautiful Nam Ou River is amust. Stopping off at a Lu tribal village wheretraditional weaving and dyeing is commonplaceand passing stunning limestone karst scenery,your river journey takes you to the mightyMekong and the sacred Pak Ou Cavescrammed with thousands of Buddha images.Khamla, founder of Big Brother MouseWat Xieng Thong, Luang PrabangLaotian ladyMonks at Kuang Si Falls, Luang PrabangLuang PrabangTemple detail, Wat Xieng Thong, Luang PrabangMaison Souvannaphoum, Luang Prabang

small rural village with a colourful local market andonly a handful of buildings The next day youcontinue your river journey to Luang Prabang. Thisis undoubtedly the most scenic and memorableway to enter or leave Laos.LUANGSAYLODGE, PAKBENGThis secluded lodge consists of 20 bungalows and is situated just outside the small village ofPakbeng, giving it a wonderfully remoteatmosphere. The individual wooden bungalowsare simple but beautifully designed in a local style.All have en suite facilities with hot water and arefan cooled. The views of the Mekong from thelodge are unparalleled - sleep with your shuttersopen so that the first sight that greets you in themorning is the sun rising over the mist coveredmountains and the Mekong as it stretches into the distance.Nong KhiawSituated just two to three hours drive north ofLuang Prabang, Nong Khiaw is a quiet backwaterthat sees relatively few travellers. The town itself is small and rustic but the setting is exceptional:poised between the Ou River and themountainous interior it has some of the mostspectacular scenery in northern Laos. Thispeaceful and tranquil location really is a totalescape from everyday life.NONGKHIAWRIVERSIDERESORT, NONGKHIAWAccommodation in this area is simple, but theNong Khiaw Riverside Resort is comfortable andthe best available. It has been built along the sideof the valley and the limestone cliffs make animpressive backdrop as the river runs below. The owners keenly observe the principles ofresponsible travel and encourage independent butconscientious exploration of the nearby villages.The Mekong in the northOne of the best ways to enter Laos is by riverfrom the Thai border. After a night in the remotereaches of northern Thailand, travel through theGolden Triangle region to the border at HuayXai. Complete the simple border formalities, thenboard the Luang Say cruise boat to journey downthe Mekong River, passing lush green mountainsrising sharply from the banks as the rivermeanders south towards Luang Prabang. Hill tribevillages dot the banks of this untouched region:fishermen cast their nets at sunset while childrenplay in the shallows. A night is spent in Pakbeng, a44Local girls looking out over the MekongLuang Say Lodge, PakbengNong Khiaw