The Far NorthThe northern part of Laos is a remote regionwhere a craggy and mountainous landscape haskept the modern world at bay, protecting isolatedminority villages perched on sheer hillsides andhuddling in protected valleys. Heading north fromthe Thai border towards China, the town ofLuang Nam Tha is the gateway to the Nam HaNational Park, with countless opportunities toexplore on foot, by kayak and on mountain bikes. A little further south you will stumble upon thepicturesque area of Muang La and the dramaticvalley of Nong Khiaw before arriving by road orboat at the cultural centre of Luang Prabang.Improved road conditions mean it is now possible to travel through this remote area butaccommodation is simple. Another emergingdestination in this part of Laos is Vieng Xai. Setamongst beautiful limestone karsts, the typicalmountains of the northeast, this is best known as the home of the cave system used during the Vietnam War as part of the Pathet Lao'sheadquarters (see boxed text).BOATLANDINGGUESTHOUSE,NEARLUANGNAMTHAThe delightful Boat Landing Guesthouse isperched on the banks of the Nam Tha river, sixkilometres outside of the village of Luang NamTha. Charming wooden bungalows are scatteredamongst lush tropical gardens. Each is fan cooled and has a veranda with river views. Thiseco-friendly guesthouse produces its own energyfrom solar panels and also supports many localwildlife and community improvement projects inthe nearby Nam Ha National Park.MUANGLARESORT, MUANGLALocated in the heart of northern Laos this small,elegant property really is an oasis in thewilderness and is the perfect place to relax andunwind. There are eight individually-decoratedbungalows, all dotted around a charming gardenarea next to the Nam Kor River. Natural hotsprings have been used to create a small elevatedhot tub with great views over the river andsurrounding countryside. Dinner is served at thestylish terrace restaurant that offers a deliciousarray of local Lao food and French specialities andon cool winter evenings a cosy open fire is lit.www.audleytravel.com/laos ?01993 838 125 ?Laos45Vieng Xai CavesCut deep inside one of the mostpicturesque natural valleys in SoutheastAsia lies a network of caves that, until2009, were out of bounds and off themap. Used by the Pathet Lao Army andlocal villagers to shelter from theAmerican bombers during the VietnamWar, they have now been opened upand offer inquisitive travellers a rareopportunity to glimpse a part of Laos'hidden past. Spend a couple of daysexploring the caves, the ancient standingstones at Hin Tang, some natural hotsprings and the beautiful surroundingcountryside. Whilst getting here fromLuang Prabang can take a couple ofdays, it serves as a great stopover forthose en route overland into Vietnam.Muang La Resort, Muang LaBoat Landing Guesthouse, Luang Nam ThaYoung monks at Wat Xieng Chai, Luang Nam Tha provinceNam Ou River, Nong Khiaw

Spiritualism in LaosThe gentle rhythm of everyday life in Laos isunderpinned by an inherent spiritualism.During your travels you will most likelyencounter a form of spirit worship or animismthat, although officially banned, co-exists quitenaturally alongside Buddhist beliefs. Evidenceof this can be most explicitly seen at Wat SiMuang in Vientiane, where the temple'scentral image of the city pillar, said to inhabitthe guardian of the city, is worshipped bylocals alongside Buddha. Participating in a Baci ceremony is a fascinatingand poignant way to experience Laos' spiritualside. The ceremony calls back the 32 spirits ofthe body to the individual as they are believedto occasionally stray from their owner. Theritual sees the village elder calling the spirits in front of an arrangement of banana leaves,flowers and fruit from which hang cottonthreads. The threads are then taken by thevillagers and wrapped around your wristswhilst blessings are bestowed on you. A Baciceremony is performed when a person is illor about to embark on an important event,or for the welcoming of friends, to ensurethat all the spirits are present and equilibriumis restored to the soul. Vang ViengThis small town is set in some of the most strikingscenery in Indochina, and for this reason has beenfirmly established on the backpacker trail foryears. Jagged limestone cliffs rise from the banksof the Nam Song River creating a dramatic,dominating skyline. Recently a welcome selectionof comfortable small hotels has increased VangVieng's appeal. Activities in the area tend to beadventurous and include caving, kayaking andtubing, where you gently float down river in aninner tube. Even if you do none of these, thetown's stunning mountain backdrop makes it aworthwhile stop on the long drive between Luang Prabang and the capital Vientiane.46Alms giving, Luang PrabangThe giving of alms, whilst commonplacethroughout Laos, is a particular highlight ofyour time in Luang Prabang. At dawn, thelocal Buddhist monks form a saffron streamas they process along the streets collectingalms of rice and vegetables from the town'sinhabitants. Alms giving is an integral part ofthe Buddhist philosophy, earning the givermerit or 'bun' towards their next life.Temple offerings, Wat Si Muang, VientianeVang Vieng