The Plain of JarsMore than 300 enormous stone jars, their origins long forgotten and their original use andsignificance still unclear, lie scattered on a highgrassy plain near to the town of Phonsavan.Legend says these vast containers, weighing up to six tonnes, were left over from a victory partyafter a 6th-century war, but the truth is no-oneknows who made the jars or how they got here:an enigma that grows steadily more eerie as thesun begins to set. You can fly here from Vientiane or take the longer road journey fromLuang Prabang through hill tribe villages and rural scenery.VientianeVientiane is the capital of Laos, and although thelargest city in the country, it still has a provincialfeel to it and is a pleasant place to explore onfoot. Tree-lined boulevards and elegantarchitecture testify to its years under Frenchoccupation, in particular the Patuxai, which is asmaller, Asian version of the Arc de Triomphe inParis. The colonial past mingles with even oldertemples such as Wat Si Saket and Pha ThatLuang, rich with the country's historic, spiritualand national heritage. Many of the handicraftcentres and restaurants in the city work with thelocal community to ensure traditional values arenot lost. We encourage our clients to visit suchprojects whilst in Vientiane as well as the COPE centre. This is an excellent project whichhighlights the much overlooked plight of victims of unexploded ordnance from the heavy bombing campaigns during the Vietnam War.COPE provides free prosthetics and mobilitydevices to those in need as well as a fullrehabilitation programme.ANSARA, VIENTIANEWalking distance from the Mekong River, thishotel is centrally located and yet pleasantlypeaceful. With only 14 rooms and suites, Ansarahas a homely feel to it, and the quality of serviceand stylish décor make it a sophisticated choice.Central LaosTravellers to Laos rarely visit the central regionand so miss out on an area of outstanding naturalbeauty. The Phou Hin Boun National Protectedarea is a little-known gem. Skirted on one side bythe Mekong River and on the other by themountain range that divides Laos and Vietnam,this area is home to small minority villages,towering karst limestone cliffs, primary forest, ricepaddies and twisting rivers. The town of Hin Bounis a good base for exploring the incredible KongLor Cave by boat, seven kilometres in length andup to 100 metres high in places. A little further south the town of Thakek, with itssomnolent ambience and many fine examples ofFrench colonial architecture, lies on the banks ofthe Mekong River and is a good launching pointfor excursions into this captivating wilderness.From here you can explore the many caves thatlitter the region, including Tham Pha Pa orBuddha Cave, discovered by a local man outhunting for bats. Climbing a cliff to locate the batshe found a hidden cave housing hundreds of oldBuddha relics and decaying parchments with Paliand Sanskrit writings. Here you can board a riverboat to visit one of many minority villages,communities that still practice animist rites andworship the forest spirits. For those willing tostray from the beaten track a visit to this region is immensely rewarding.www.audleytravel.com/laos ?01993 838 125 ?Laos47Ansara, VientianePatuxai monument, VientianeHin Boun, Central LaosThe Plain of JarsPha That Luang, VientianeEntrance to Kong Lor Cave, Central Laos

48Along with a number of cascading waterfalls, theregion's major sight is Wat Phou, the stunningruins of a temple complex close to the smalltown of Champasak. Built originally by the Cham people and then renovated by the Khmer kings, it pre-dates Cambodia's legendarytemples of Angkor.LAFOLIELODGE, DONDAENGLocated on the quiet island of Don Daeng, ashort boat trip across the Mekong from WatPhou and the pretty town of Champasak, La Folieis by far the best accommodation in the region.Accommodation is in 24 bungalow-style rooms,each decorated in a traditional Laotian style, andset in tropical gardens around an inviting pool.The restaurant is excellent, and bikes are availableto explore this laid-back example of rural Laos at its best.Bolaven PlateauAlthough most of southern Laos revolves aroundthe Mekong River, the region is also home to oneof the world's most fertile areas, the stunningBolaven Plateau. An hour's drive from Pakse, thisis home to a number of diverse and intriguingminority villages, plantations growing coffee, teaand cashew nuts as well as the beautiful twinwaterfalls of Tad Fan and the more remotebeauty spot of Tad Lo. Although it is possible tovisit the plateau as a day trip from Pakse it is abetter idea to stay overnight: there is basicaccommodation in Tad Lo.Southern LaosIn contrast with the mountains of northern Laos, the south is flat and fertile, with a verdant landscape sheltering small villages withdistinctive customs. To explore the south you will usually take an early morning flight fromVientiane to Pakse, the only major town of theregion. This wonderfully laid-back town, a formeradministrative outpost of the French, is set on the confluence of the Mekong and Don rivers,with some interesting colonial architecture and aselection of busy markets. From here you canventure down the river to Voeung Kham on theCambodian border, where the rare Irrawaddydolphins play in the waters. Si Phan Don, or 'The 4,000 Islands', is a riverine archipelago that is worth exploring. The largest island, Don Khong,has some simple accommodation but it is alsopossible to use Don Daeng as a base. Bolaven PlateauVillage life, Don DaengWat Phou, ChampasakLa Folie Lodge, Don Daeng