DEWACHEN, PHOBJIKHAVALLEYDewachen is a charming, traditional-style propertyon the edge of the stunning Black MountainsNational Park. The restaurant commands viewsover the black-necked cranes' breeding groundsand the property is surrounded by pine forests.The 16 large guest rooms are beautifully furnishedwith wooden furniture and flooring. You will alsofind a local bukhari stove in your room with aplentiful supply of firewood to keep you warm.The wonderful setting and relaxed atmospheremake this a lovely place to stay and an excellentchoice if you are looking for a simple propertyoffering good value accommodation.TrongsaIn the 16th century, an auspicious vision of abeam of light came to the Drukpa Lama while he was meditating. He believed that where it hitthe ground a temple must be built and this wasthe birth of Trongsa, meaning 'new village' inDzongkha, the Bhutanese language. Today it is asmall community dominated by the stunningfortress which sits perched on the steep-sidedgorge of the Mangde River. The interior is madeup of a series of temples. The watchtower,overlooking the town is now a museum and itoffers incredible views of the valley below, whichcan also be explored if you have time. Trongsacan be an overnight stay or be passed through en route to the Bumthang Valley.Bumthang ValleyArriving in Bumthang, you will notice how theglacial valleys open up into beautiful pastures andquaint farming villages. Here you will get a realinsight into Bhutanese culture. Bumthang is said tobe the home of Buddhism and as you enjoy someof the local walks, you will see how little life haschanged for centuries. The valley also claims to behome to some of the oldest temples in theKingdom and the birth place of the legendarySaint Pema Lingpa, from whom the Bhutaneseroyalty trace their descent. You can also visit thefuneral chortens of the first three kings at KurjeLhakhang. Not far away is the dramaticMebartsho gorge, known as 'the flaming lake',where it is believed that Pema Lingpa found thetreasures hidden by Guru Rinpoche.Phobjikha ValleyThe Phobjikha Valley is the winter home of therare black-necked cranes, which migrate from thehigh Tibetan plateau. A visit to the Royal Societyfor the Protection of Nature, commonly knownas the Crane Centre, is a great way to discovermore about these majestic birds and help protectthis fragile environment. The valley is easilyaccessed and the active can walk down from thehigh pass, a trip of around an hour, passingthrough lovely dwarf bamboo and rhododendronforests to the gompa (monastery), which sits atthe head of the valley. There are a number ofother walks, allowing you the chance toexperience the local community and admire theviews of the Black Mountains and the splendidisolation of the valley.116Monks with ceremonial drumsDewachen, Phobjikha ValleyTrongsa Dzong

AMANKORAPUNAKHAAmankora Punakha is typical of all theproperties on this journey. The lodge isaccessed by crossing a small suspension bridge,swathed in prayer flags, over the Mo ChhuRiver. From here you travel through paddyfields to the farmhouse, which was originallybuilt by a former Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot ofBhutan) as a summer residence to oversee therice fields and fruit plantations. The eight suitesare housed in three modified rammed-earthbuildings amid lush rice fields, with views downthe valley towards the Punakha Dzong. Enjoyyour meals outside in the courtyard, or in thecommunal dining room inside the farmhouse.Like all of the lodges, Amankora Punakha isrenowned for its excellent spa treatments, andyou can take advantage of massages, yoga andmeditation courses.ExperiencesBhutan has a long tradition of warmth andhospitality and the aim of the Amankoralodges is to continue this, providing an intimateinsight into the 'Land of the Thunder Dragon'.Experiences offered might include the optionto attend a lecture on Buddhism or otheraspect of Bhutanese society, such as theconcept of Gross National Happiness, by aprominent lama (teacher of Buddhism) overpre-dinner drinks. In Paro, a visit to theNeyphug Thegchen Tsemo Monastery, arefuge for underprivileged children, provides aninsight into the life of young monks. From November through to March atAmankora Gangtey, you can learn about thehardy yaks and the nomadic existence of the herders. At Bumthang, you can have anastrological reading by a local expert or enjoya beer tasting at the nearby Red PandaBrewery. All of the lodges can recommend awide range of walks if you want to explore onfoot and provide picnic hampers, offering theperfect opportunity to appreciate the pristinevalleys. You can determine the level of activityand involvement, and all Amankora excursionsaim to provide a greater understanding of thisHimalayan kingdom.The Amankora Journey refers to a variety ofroutes that can be taken between five luxurylodges located in western and central Bhutan.The principles of these lodges are very muchin keeping with their name: aman, Sanskrit forpeace, and kora, which means journey inDzongkha. The lodges are located in Paro,Thimpu, Punakha, Gangtey, the PhobjikhaValley and the Bumthang Valley. They all havea similar atmosphere and design, with natural,rammed-earth walls and gently sloping roofs.The suites are minimalistic in design with woodpanelled interiors, terrazzo-clad baths and atraditional bukhari (wood-burning stove).Communal dining is encouraged at the lodges,with the exception of Thimpu, and localproduce enhances the impressive menus. The journey between them gives you anincredible Bhutanese experience and theemphasis throughout is very much on service,experience and impeccable attention to detail.Amankora JourneyDrukgyel Dzong, near Parowww.audleytravel.com/bhutan ?01993 838 320 ?Bhutan117Amankora PunakhaAmankora Thimpu