AMANKORAPUNAKHAAmankora Punakha is typical of all theproperties on this journey. The lodge isaccessed by crossing a small suspension bridge,swathed in prayer flags, over the Mo ChhuRiver. From here you travel through paddyfields to the farmhouse, which was originallybuilt by a former Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot ofBhutan) as a summer residence to oversee therice fields and fruit plantations. The eight suitesare housed in three modified rammed-earthbuildings amid lush rice fields, with views downthe valley towards the Punakha Dzong. Enjoyyour meals outside in the courtyard, or in thecommunal dining room inside the farmhouse.Like all of the lodges, Amankora Punakha isrenowned for its excellent spa treatments, andyou can take advantage of massages, yoga andmeditation courses.ExperiencesBhutan has a long tradition of warmth andhospitality and the aim of the Amankoralodges is to continue this, providing an intimateinsight into the 'Land of the Thunder Dragon'.Experiences offered might include the optionto attend a lecture on Buddhism or otheraspect of Bhutanese society, such as theconcept of Gross National Happiness, by aprominent lama (teacher of Buddhism) overpre-dinner drinks. In Paro, a visit to theNeyphug Thegchen Tsemo Monastery, arefuge for underprivileged children, provides aninsight into the life of young monks. From November through to March atAmankora Gangtey, you can learn about thehardy yaks and the nomadic existence of the herders. At Bumthang, you can have anastrological reading by a local expert or enjoya beer tasting at the nearby Red PandaBrewery. All of the lodges can recommend awide range of walks if you want to explore onfoot and provide picnic hampers, offering theperfect opportunity to appreciate the pristinevalleys. You can determine the level of activityand involvement, and all Amankora excursionsaim to provide a greater understanding of thisHimalayan kingdom.The Amankora Journey refers to a variety ofroutes that can be taken between five luxurylodges located in western and central Bhutan.The principles of these lodges are very muchin keeping with their name: aman, Sanskrit forpeace, and kora, which means journey inDzongkha. The lodges are located in Paro,Thimpu, Punakha, Gangtey, the PhobjikhaValley and the Bumthang Valley. They all havea similar atmosphere and design, with natural,rammed-earth walls and gently sloping roofs.The suites are minimalistic in design with woodpanelled interiors, terrazzo-clad baths and atraditional bukhari (wood-burning stove).Communal dining is encouraged at the lodges,with the exception of Thimpu, and localproduce enhances the impressive menus. The journey between them gives you anincredible Bhutanese experience and theemphasis throughout is very much on service,experience and impeccable attention to detail.Amankora JourneyDrukgyel Dzong, near Parowww.audleytravel.com/bhutan ?01993 838 320 ?Bhutan117Amankora PunakhaAmankora Thimpu

118MongarMongar makes for a good stopover betweencentral Bhutan and Trashigang. It is a pleasantsmall town in the midst of some dramatic sceneryand unlike towns in the western half of Bhutan,which are located in the valley bottom, is situatedon a ridge amongst fields of maize and mustard.The region is also renowned for its abundance oflemon grass. Despite today's lack of funding forthe extraction process, you can find jars ofglorious smelling lemon grass oil for sale inMongar itself. There is a small selection of simpleaccommodation here in the town, run by thelocal community.TrashigangThis bustling town, set above a deep and fertileriver valley, was once the centre for trade withTibet. It's the principal market town for the semi-nomadic people of Merak and Sakteng alsoknown as Brokpa (highlanders), who come totrade their yak butter for provisions to take backto the mountains. It is a very pleasant place towalk around, with a lively bazaar full of tiny,traditional shops and a small square dominated bya large prayer wheel. The town's dzong isperched on a high promontory, inaccessible fromall but one side, and commands outstanding viewsover the surrounding countryside.The East With the border between Bhutan's southeast andIndia now open to visitors, the east of Bhutan ismore accessible than ever before. Travelling ineastern Bhutan is a great adventure. It is muchless visited than the west: the people have hadless exposure to Western culture, spectacularroads cling to high mountain sides and the valleysare deep and steep-sided. You can reach the eastof the country by travelling overland from centralBhutan on a jaw-dropping journey which involvescrossing a pass at 3,750 metres and then a riverdown at 570 metres, all within a seven hour drive.Entering or leaving Bhutan overland throughSamdrup Jongkhar, the border town, gives way tospectacular scenery, with the plains of India'sAssam to the south and Bhutan's Himalayanfoothills rising to the north.Farm visitIf you are interested in the local way oflife, a visit, meal or even an overnightstay in a Bhutanese farmhouse is a must.Since visitors are still a relatively rarephenomenon in Bhutan, many locals willbe delighted to invite you into theirhomes and, with typical Bhutanesehospitality, are bound to offer you a cupor two of yak butter tea. Some familieshave set up a rather more organisedapproach to visitors and will cook you atypical Bhutanese meal, which you canthen enjoy in the convivial company ofyour hosts. You can stay overnight atsome farmhouses, rising early with yourhosts and witnessing the morning ritualat the farmhouse altar, something youwon't quickly forget.Bhutanese farmhouseAn isolated valley typical of Eastern BhutanYoung monks making smoke offerings, Trashigang