and in the perfect position to watch the sun rise over the lake which is also the seasonalhome to flocks of migratory birds. Chhatra Sagaris almost completely self-sustaining, and itshome-grown, home-cooked food is not to bemissed. There are plenty of fascinating sights tokeep you busy. The nearby village is fun towander around, the camp's organic vegetablefarm makes for a fascinating guided tour, and thehills around the lake are perfect for walking. Thecharming Nimaj family are on hand to ensureyou get the most out of your stay.AMANBAGH, NEARALWARSituated in the Shekhawati region, Amanbagh isa truly opulent hotel and rural Rajasthan's mostluxurious property. Soft sandstone and pale pinkmarble have been combined to create a regalgarden estate. Some of the suites boast privatepools. As with all Aman properties there is afocus on the guest experience and excursionsinclude visits to a nearby temple and fort, camelor horse treks, and a number of easy walks inand around the nearby rural villages. A tour ofthe deserted 16th century ruins at Bhangarh is amagical experience and Sariska National Park isnearby. For the less active or those simplylooking to relax, the resort has a beautifulswimming pool, a spa and also offers yoga andmeditation classes. PushkarThe small holy town of Pushkar comes to lifeevery November, when in accordance with thelunar cycle, this normally tranquil lakeside isswamped by thousands of colourful Rajasthaniscoming to trade and race camels. A huge tentedcity is created in the desert and the festivitiesare concentrated into a one week period but the days preceding the fair are just asexciting as the participants arrive from allcorners of Rajasthan.A break in rural Rajasthan can offer the perfectantidote to all the hustle and bustle of the cities.With the vast majority of India's populationliving in rural communities, you can experience atraditional way of life that has largely remainedunchanged for centuries. Whether staying in asmall village or in splendid isolation, stopping inbetween the cities helps break up the long roadjourneys, allows you to recharge your batteriesand often proves to be the highlight of your trip.SamodeJust an hour from Jaipur in the rugged landscapeof the northern Aravalli hills, the village ofSamode is an excellent place to relax. Walkingthrough the streets and alleys you will discoverartisans' workshops where traditional printingand weaving are still practised. Samode workswell as a base from which to explore Jaipur andit is one of the few rural destinations for anitinerary solely focusing on Delhi, Agra andJaipur. Accommodation is in Samode Palace,which offers wonderful luxuries such as aninfinity pool, or you can stay in Samode Bagh, a large tented camp set in well maintainedMughal gardens. CHHATRASAGARNIMAJ,CHHATRASAGARSet in 1,400 acres of farmland equidistant fromJaipur and Jodhpur, this is an extraordinarilytranquil spot. The comfortable tents, each withpermanent bathrooms, are situated on a damRural Rajasthan14A rural family on a bullock cartChhatra Sagar Nimaj Pushkar Lake

www.audleytravel.com/northindia ?01993 838 345 ?Rajasthan & the North15BundiTucked away in the little visited southeastcorner of Rajasthan, Bundi is dominated by theTaragarh Fort towering above the small town.There is also a palace with some strikingarchitecture, although parts of it remain closedto public view. Unlike other forts, there are fewvisitors and guards are happy to unlock gatesand reveal beautiful original frescoes which addsto the sense of exploration. Bundi offers thechance to experience a small town in areasonably quiet area and a highlight is simplyspending time wandering the bazaar. There is aselection of restored havelis that offercomfortable atmospheric accommodation. SHAHPURABAGH, SHAHPURALocated between Jaipur and Udaipur, ShahpuraBagh has a wonderful setting in the plains,surrounded by numerous lakes dug by theancestors of the current landowners to bringwater to the area. This former summerresidence of the rulers of Shahpura is 375 yearsold and has been beautifully restored. The hostspride themselves in offering a warm familywelcome and personalised hospitality. Alsooffered are guided bird walks, picnics, boat ridesand private tours of Dhikola Fort, while theinfinity pool makes a stay at Shahpura evenmore comfortable.RohetRohet is a small village located less than an hoursouth of Jodhpur. The main attractions are thelake, which attracts numerous migrating birds inthe winter, and the small 16th century castle,Rohet Garh which has been converted into aheritage hotel. Offering an atmosphericalternative to staying in Jodhpur itself, thebeautiful gardens are at their best as you sip achilled fresh lime and soda and if the heat ofRajasthan becomes too much there is also asmall pool. Just outside of Rohet is theWilderness Camp, offering a desert experiencewith Rajasthani tents and camp fires all under a night sky full of stars. Mihir Garh is anotherwonderful luxurious retreat representing a smallfort in a tranquil setting surrounded by typicalRajasthani countryside. NarlaiThe 15th century village of Narlai, situatedbetween Jodhpur and Udaipur, is convenient for visiting Kumbhalgarh Fort and the Jaintemples at Ranakpur. The village is interesting to explore and there is a temple where amiraculous flame is reputed to have burnt forcenturies producing saffron instead of soot.Local legend states that wishes made here cometrue. For the energetic, a walk to the top of thehuge granite rock that towers over the village isdefinitely worth the effort for the spectacularviews, especially at sunset. Accommodation is in Fort Rawla Narlai, a small boutique propertywith individually decorated rooms that surrounda peaceful courtyard.Wilderness Camp, RohetNarlaiFarmer with water buffalos