GujaratTo the south of Rajasthan and to the east ofPakistan and the Arabian Sea lies Gujarat, one ofIndia's most industrial states. Its topography rangesfrom forested tracts and fertile plains to tidalmarshland and these landscapes are matched inpolitical and cultural diversity. Often overlookedby visitors and despite limited infrastructurecompared to Rajasthan, Gujarat has plenty tooffer the more adventurous traveller. Highlights of the state include the different pastoralcommunities that can be visited in the Kutchprovince, whose histories date back to the 7thcentury. Although today distinctions between thetribes are less pronounced, historically each hadtheir own particular craft or sector of agriculture.The Little Rann of Kutch is an area of marsheshome to the rare wild ass. Flamingos can also befound in the region, breeding in July and August.Sasan Gir National Park in the south of the stateis the last habitat of the rare Asiatic lion. AhmedabadThe major city in Gujarat, Ahmedabad is asprawling, bustling city. The old town is dividedinto numerous neighbourhoods with gatesmarking the boundaries, while the narrow streetshide beautifully carved wooden temples, havelisand smaller houses. Ahmedabad's bazaars,including its atmospheric night market, arefantastic places to buy superior quality cotton, silkand embroidered clothes. The Calico Museum,housing one of the finest collections of antiqueand modern Indian textiles, and Ghandi's Ashram,from which he started his march forindependence, are interesting places to visit. Easily accessible by air from Mumbai, Ahmedabadis the gateway for the Gujarat region.MaheshwarSet on the banks of the Narmada River lies therelaxing town of Maheshwar, in the state ofMadhya Pradesh, east of Gujarat. The fort andtemples, built in the 18th century by Rani AhilyaBai - one of India's most revered women rulers -dominate the town while the daily activities atMaheshwar's ghats, the steps down to the river,are an absorbing sight. A charitable society insidethe fort maintains a sari-weaving factory whereyou can watch an ancient technique, unique toMaheshwar, performed by the weavers workingon the hand-looms. www.audleytravel.com/northindia ?01993 838 345 ?Rajasthan & the North19AHILYAFORT, MAHESHWARWith views over the Narmada River, Ahilya Forthas been lovingly converted into a 14 roomboutique hotel with attractive courtyard gardensand a pool area. You are transported back to the18th century by your host, Prince Shivaji RaoHolkar, son of the last Maharaja of Indore. Eachroom is unique, but they are all large andbeautifully furnished. You will be looked after inevery respect during your stay.The Thar Desert, near JaisalmerAhilya Fort, MaheshwarHoly cow in GujaratLounge area, Ahilya Fort, MaheshwarTemple elephant, AhmedabadWoman embroidering fabric, GujaratHindu pilgrims, Maheshwar

THEGATEWAY, VARANASIThis modern, tastefully decorated hotel is situatedin the cantonment area of Varanasi. The roomsare clean, of good standard and have all theamenities you would expect from an internationalhotel. There is a pool set amongst large gardensand grounds and the 'Varuna' restaurant is highlyrecommended. The Gateway is a comfortableoption in Varanasi offering excellent value. NADESARPALACE, VARANASIAn exclusive royal residence reminiscent of theBritish Colonial era that beautifully combinesabsolute luxury with modern day Indianhospitality, the palace itself was built by the EastIndia Company. The ten palace rooms and suiteshave been furnished in a heritage style inspired bythe number of royal guests who have stayed hereover the years. Nadesar Palace, despite beingsituated within the grounds of The Gatewayhotel, offers an intimate experience; the very bestaccommodation that Varanasi has to offer. KhajurahoThis complex of 21 exquisite stone-carvedtemples built between the 10th and 12thcenturies is considered the Chandella dynasty'sultimate architectural accomplishment. Famed forits Kama Sutra sculptures, intricate carvings coverevery pillar from plinth to spire, depicting battles,heavenly nymphs, banquets, musicians and, ofcourse, erotic figures. Khajuraho's isolated positionsaved it from desecration by Muslim invaders, butair travel brings it within easy reach and it is justan hour's flight from Delhi and Varanasi. Thetown itself is little more than a collection ofsprawling villages and this simply adds to thesense of exploration. Nearby is Panna NationalPark which, although big cat sightings are not thatlikely, provides an intimate wildlife experiencewithout the crowds of some of the more popular parks. THELALITTEMPLEVIEW,KHAJURAHOThis hotel is spacious and light with stylishlydecorated rooms. Situated just 500 metres fromthe western group of temples, it affordsmagnificent views from the gardens and rooms.Everything you would expect from a five starproperty is offered, including an excellentrestaurant, a spa and a large range of activities.The outdoor spaces are expansive, including alarge swimming pool and lawns. VaranasiAlso known as Banaras, Varanasi is one of theworld's oldest living cities and is sacrosanct to allHindus. Rising up on the western bank of thesacred Ganges River, the maze of narrow streetsis bursting with life, unveiling temples hidden fromsight combined with the vast ghats. The best wayto appreciate the city is by boat, watching aspeople go about their daily activities; theirmorning ablutions, lighting funeral pyres andconducting ceremonial offerings to the goddessGanga. The atmosphere is very different in theevening as the scent of sandalwood and incenseswirls around and the sounds of puja chanting and clashing cymbals rise to a crescendo. Varanasi is an all encompassing city and can beoverwhelming. However, it captures the veryessence of India and should not be missed.Varanasi is just over an hour's flight from Delhi. 20Morning at the ghats, VaranasiThe Gateway, VaranasiNadesar Palace, Varanasi