RANJIT'SSVAASA, AMRITSARThis small character property has a quiet location off the main Mall Road in the new city.Each of the 18 rooms has been tastefullydecorated and much of the furniture remainsfrom the days when it was the owner's familyhome. There is an extensive Ayurvedic spa and a yoga hall where you can join a group session.The property offers good value for money andcan also arrange excursions if you want toexplore in your free time.Dharamsala & McLeodganjThe sounds of distant chants and the crimsonrobes of passing Buddhist monks take you aworld away from the hustle and bustle of manyIndian cities. Situated in the foothills of theHimalaya, Dharamsala and McLeodganj aresurrounded by staggering mountain views and are a base for many Tibetan people in exile.Visiting the Norbulingka Institute, established topreserve Tibetan culture, skills and crafts, you will absorb a feel for life across the Himalaya. The Dalai Lama is regularly in session in theTsuglagkhang Complex and the buzz of his arrivalcan be felt throughout the town. You can enjoysome lovely walks through the nearby forests ofpine, rhododendron and Himalayan Oak, alsohome to abundant birdlife. There are a range ofsimple but characterful properties here, which areideal bases from which to explore the region.PragpurA couple of hours down the valley fromDharamsala and McLeodganj, Pragpur enjoys awarmer climate while still having great views ofthe Dhauladhar Range. It provides a quieterretreat from the more popular hill towns. Thevillage of Pragpur and neighbouring Garli aremedieval. You walk on cobbled streets throughnarrow, colourful alleyways where the lovely, slate roofed, mud plastered havelis show life as it has been lived for centuries. The onlyaccommodation option, Judges Court on theedge of the village, takes you back to the days ofthe Raj; you will find yourself captivated by thewonderful old family photographs depicting thetimes through which this heritage hotel has lived.AmritsarAmritsar, located in India's Punjab region, isfamously home to the Golden Temple, whichevery Sikh endeavours to visit and bathe in thesacred pool at least once in their lifetime. Thetemple is gilded with 100 kilograms of gold and is bustling with people and wonderful colour. The atmosphere is at its most seductive in theevening when the Holy Book is paraded beforejostling crowds in a palanquin as it is taken to itsresting place in the 'Putting to Bed' ceremony.The city makes for an interesting extension to atour in Rajasthan, or as the start of a journeythrough the Himalayan foothills. Aside from themajestic temple, the city is also known for itsproximity to Pakistan. You can visit the border forthe closing ceremony, which is quite a spectacleas soldiers fling their legs high in the air and holler,each side competing against the other.34The Golden Temple, AmritsarDharamsala nestled in the mountainsBorder closing ceremony, Amritsar

ShimlaShimla was established by the British Raj as theirsummer capital in the 1820s, when it was theperfect sanctuary for those escaping the summerheat of the plains. It was quite an entertainmenthub and you can still visit the Gaiety Theatre,once a major focus for social life. The ViceregalLodge is another highlight built in 1888 on itsown hill and home to the Viceroy of India. Oneof the best ways to approach the city is to take aride on the toy train. Completed in 1903, thetrack has 864 bridges and 103 tunnels and offersglorious views. Three nights in Shimla gives you the chance to enjoy some of the surroundingcountryside with traditional villages, open pasturesand orchards, which produce beautiful blossom inthe spring. Shimla can also be reached by air andthen road from Delhi.CLARKES, SHIMLAClarkes is one of Shimla's oldest hotels, datingfrom 1898. It is situated at the quiet eastern endof the pedestrian Mall Road and is within walkingdistance of many of the town's attractions. Thespacious guest rooms are comfortably furnishedwith modern conveniences. This great value hotelhas everything you need and is ideal for thosewanting to explore Shimla by foot.THECECIL, SHIMLAPerfectly positioned on the outskirts of Shimla,The Cecil is a peaceful hotel with lovely mountainviews and colonial charm. On entering, you willdiscover the grace and elegance to which the Raj were accustomed. The rooms are builtaround the impressive atrium, home to beautifulwooden floors, leather furniture and roaring fires in winter, all enhancing the grandeur. Theexcellent facilities make for a very comfortablestay with a pool and a spa in which to relax atthe end of the day.www.audleytravel.com/himalaya ?01993 838 345 ?Indian Himalaya35WILDFLOWERHALL, NEARSHIMLASeated grandly on a mountain top, surrounded by pine forest, Wildflower Hall is a perfectretreat. Part of the Oberoi Hotels and ResortsGroup, the highest level of luxury can beexperienced during your stay. Views of the distantHimalayan range can be seen from the hotelwhich sits at 2,500 metres and was built on thesite of Lord Kitchener's residence. The heatedindoor and outdoor pools and spa combine wellwith horse riding, wonderful walks within thegrounds and many other activities.Local lady, near ShimlaThe Cecil, ShimlaViceregal Lodge, ShimlaToy train to ShimlaWildflower Hall, ShimlaPutting the Holy Book to bed, AmritsarReligious painting, DharamsalaShimla