ShimlaShimla was established by the British Raj as theirsummer capital in the 1820s, when it was theperfect sanctuary for those escaping the summerheat of the plains. It was quite an entertainmenthub and you can still visit the Gaiety Theatre,once a major focus for social life. The ViceregalLodge is another highlight built in 1888 on itsown hill and home to the Viceroy of India. Oneof the best ways to approach the city is to take aride on the toy train. Completed in 1903, thetrack has 864 bridges and 103 tunnels and offersglorious views. Three nights in Shimla gives you the chance to enjoy some of the surroundingcountryside with traditional villages, open pasturesand orchards, which produce beautiful blossom inthe spring. Shimla can also be reached by air andthen road from Delhi.CLARKES, SHIMLAClarkes is one of Shimla's oldest hotels, datingfrom 1898. It is situated at the quiet eastern endof the pedestrian Mall Road and is within walkingdistance of many of the town's attractions. Thespacious guest rooms are comfortably furnishedwith modern conveniences. This great value hotelhas everything you need and is ideal for thosewanting to explore Shimla by foot.THECECIL, SHIMLAPerfectly positioned on the outskirts of Shimla,The Cecil is a peaceful hotel with lovely mountainviews and colonial charm. On entering, you willdiscover the grace and elegance to which the Raj were accustomed. The rooms are builtaround the impressive atrium, home to beautifulwooden floors, leather furniture and roaring fires in winter, all enhancing the grandeur. Theexcellent facilities make for a very comfortablestay with a pool and a spa in which to relax atthe end of the day.www.audleytravel.com/himalaya ?01993 838 345 ?Indian Himalaya35WILDFLOWERHALL, NEARSHIMLASeated grandly on a mountain top, surrounded by pine forest, Wildflower Hall is a perfectretreat. Part of the Oberoi Hotels and ResortsGroup, the highest level of luxury can beexperienced during your stay. Views of the distantHimalayan range can be seen from the hotelwhich sits at 2,500 metres and was built on thesite of Lord Kitchener's residence. The heatedindoor and outdoor pools and spa combine wellwith horse riding, wonderful walks within thegrounds and many other activities.Local lady, near ShimlaThe Cecil, ShimlaViceregal Lodge, ShimlaToy train to ShimlaWildflower Hall, ShimlaPutting the Holy Book to bed, AmritsarReligious painting, DharamsalaShimla

Hills, this holy city has drawn pilgrims seekingenlightenment since ancient times. Widely knownas a centre for yoga and meditation, it drew theattention of the Beatles, who came here tomeditate in 1968. The pace of life is relaxed tosay the least. In recent years Rishikesh and itssurrounds have also become somewhat of a hubfor river rafting, with everything from white waterrapids to a gentle cruise down the river available.The rafting season runs from September to June.HaridwarAs one of the seven holy Hindu cities, Haridwar is another of the Himalayan foothills' fascinatingsurprises, with archaeologists dating the city'shabitation back thousands of years. It haswitnessed numerous rulers and invaders over the centuries, and its history is intertwined withthe very origins of Hinduism itself. It's a bustlingtown filled with temples, monuments andintricately carved havelis and, like Rishikesh, it hasan evening Aarti, which draws huge crowds ofpilgrims. The city is well connected by road andrail, making it a gateway to the region and anunusual stop that shouldn't be overlooked.RishikeshRishikesh, like Haridwar, is one of India's sevenholy cities, and is steeped in spirituality. Locatedon the banks of the mighty Ganges, at the foot ofthe Himalaya where the river leaves the Sivalik36Aarti ceremony, HaridwarAartiIn Hinduism, Aarti is a religious ritualinvolving the worship of a sacred deity. The most common that you mightexperience is the Ganga Aarti (worship tothe Ganges River). This is a ceremony wherepriests hold large fire bowls in their hands,the smell of incense filling the air and thegongs and chanting bringing the ghats to life.Small candles and flowers are offered to theriver as a symbol of hope and to give thanksto the Ganges for being a source of life andprosperity. To witness an Aarti can be amagical experience as not only is theceremony enchanting, but the importancethat religion plays in everyday life is humbling.Evening Aarties are performed in Haridwar,Rishikesh and Varanasi daily. The Aarti inVaranasi is the most visited and can bewitnessed by boat or along the ghats.Haridwar offers a truly authentic experiencewith hundreds of locals jostling to witness theceremony and for those seeking a moreintimate experience, Rishikesh is ideal.Bridge across the Ganges, RishikeshAarti offeringScenery near Rishikesh