MysoreFamous for silk, sandalwood and incense, Mysoreis one of South India's most vibrant and aromaticcities. For more than 500 years this was thecapital of the Wodeyar Rajas, who ruled over thesurrounding state. The Maharaja Palace, rebuilt athuge expense in 1897 after a fire, is an imposingcentrepiece, especially on Saturdays, Sundays andpublic holidays when it is illuminated by thousandsof tiny light bulbs. It is a fascinating place to visitand reflects the mixed tastes and influences of thelate ruling Maharajas. A trip to the outskirts of thetown brings you to the popular spot of ChamundiHill where, having ascended 1,180 or so steps tothe summit, you are rewarded with panoramicviews of Mysore. En route you'll pass one ofIndia's largest monolithic Nandi Bull statues andthe city's most important temple, patronised bythe rulers of Mysore for centuries. Mysore is also a great base from which to visit nearbyRanganathittu Bird Sanctuary, Srirangapatna and Somnathpur.GITANJALIFARM, MYSOREAt the foot of the hills on the outskirts of Mysore,Gitanjali Farm is a family home offering warmthand hospitality. The brick farmhouse is set ingardens, with distant views to the Lalitha MahalPalace, while comfortable accommodation isoffered in four rooms in the garden. Yourcharming hosts Dalu, Muthu and their daughterYamuna are from the Coorg region. Delicioushome-cooked food featuring distinctive Coorgicuisine is served either in the family dining roomor outside in the gardens after a pre-dinner drink,and offers the chance to chat to your affablehosts about local life.www.audleytravel.com/southindia ?01993 838 355 ?Tamil Nadu & Karnataka53SrirangapatnaSrirangapatna is situated on an island in the KaveriRiver, approximately 12 kilometres from Mysore.This historic site dates back to the 10th century,although it was not until the 18th century thatTipu Sultan succeeded his father, Haidar Ali, andadopted it as his capital. It was here that hefought to his death during a bloody battle againstthe British, which left the city in ruins. Althoughsome of the sites require imagination, TipuSultan's small Summer Palace is still intact,decorated with wonderful vivid frescoes whichdepict various battles and meetings between Tipu and neighbouring princes.Ranganathittu Bird SanctuaryThis small bird sanctuary about 18 kilometresfrom Mysore, offers visitors the opportunity tosee some of India's exotic birds, including paintedstorks, kingfishers and cormorants. The sanctuaryis a group of rocky and wooded islands on theKaveri River and the best way to get around is by small boat early in the morning or lateafternoon. This is an interesting and relaxingexcursion away from city life and an absolutemust for ornithologists in October andNovember, when the sanctuary attracts hugeflocks of migrating birds.Asian openbill storks, Ranganathittu Bird SanctuaryMaharaja Palace, MysoreHindu temple, MysoreGitanjali Farm, MysoreBollywood posters, BangaloreNandi Bull, near Mysore

Belur, Halebid andShravanabelagolaThe two remote and beautiful temple sites ofBelur and Halebid at the heart of the HoysalaEmpire date from the 12th century and togetherform perhaps the richest repository of Hindu artand sculpture in India. The temple façades arerichly decorated with intricate stone carvings andthe interiors are filled with countless filigreedpillars and friezes, depicting tales from theRamayana and the Mahabharata. While travelling to this area, a visit to the hilltop town ofShravanabelagola, a significant pilgrimage centrebased around the world's tallest monolithicsculpture, is recommended. Here, reached by 635 steps, the figure of the naked Jain SaintGomareshwara stands 18 metres high and isdevoid of any decoration except creepers twisting their way up his body.HOYSALAVILLAGERESORT,HASSANDesigned by an award-winning Indian architect,this resort combines the geometric style ofHoysala architecture with the simplicity of localMalnad villages. The clusters of cottages, which all have modern amenities, are set in landscapedgardens, and the use of local material gives anauthentic feel without compromising comfort and service. There is also a swimming pool, multi-cuisine restaurant and bar, all reached bymeandering walkways. Located five kilometresoutside Hassan, it makes a good base for visitingthe Hoysala temples in the surrounding area.Nagarhole National ParkAccessible from both Mysore and northernKerala, Nagarhole became a National Park in1955 and is the best place to view wildlife during a tour of South India. The forests andgrassland support a large population of elephantand a range of birds and mammals that can beseen either by jeep, coracle or motorboat. Please see the Wildlife section, pages 76-83, forfurther details.SomnathpurSomnathpur makes a wonderful day trip fromMysore, with the one and a half hour drive to the southeast taking you through attractivecountryside, dotted with paddy fields and tinyvillages. Surrounded by lovely gardens and palmtrees, the ancient Keshava Temple at Somnathpuris one of the best preserved and completemonuments remaining from the Hoysala dynasty.Created in 1268 by a Hoysala general, it featuresthree shrines, each dedicated to a different formof the god Vishnu. The walls are completelycovered in exquisite carvings of deities from theHindu Pantheon, episodes from the Ramayanaand other epics. Walking around the temple, inthe sacred clockwise direction, you can admireintricate carvings of a myriad of gods, goddesses,elephant, warriors and musicians that all feature in Hindu mythology.54Devotees entering Chennakesava Temple, Belur Pool at Hoysala Village Resort, HassanTemples at Belur