CoorgCoorg (Kodagu) was a state in its own right until 1956. The market town of Madikeri is thecapital of the region and is surrounded bypicturesque hills clothed in spice plantations andcoffee estates. This is a remote region and anideal area for trekking through tropical forest and plantations. It is also possible to arrangefishing or a round of golf at the 18 hole, par 70course situated in the heart of the country'scoffee gardens. Many elephant were onceemployed in the vast forests, but since logging hasstopped, some of these can be seen at DubareElephant Camp. A number of Tibetan villages inthe area, initially settled by refugees in the 1960s,and the Buddhist Monastery of Sera Je are wellworth a visit.SCHOOLESTATE, COORGThis friendly homestay is run by the Ayyapasfamily. Their bungalow is surrounded by flower-filled gardens in a coffee estate. The fourclean guest rooms with en suite bathrooms arequaint and old-fashioned but comfortable. Thecuisine is a mix of continental and Coorgi recipes,and dinner with your hosts is an opportunity tofind out more about local customs. There areinteresting walks around the estate, a picnic bythe river can be arranged and there is a choice ofshady spots to relax with a book. Bird watchersshould also find plenty to observe here.Ooty and CoonoorOoty (Udhagamandalam) is the best known hillstation in the Nilgiri Hills. At an altitude of 2,286metres, it is popular with both foreign and localvisitors escaping the heat of the plains. It wasfounded in the early 19th century to serve as thesummer headquarters of the British MadrasGovernment. A maze of neatly clipped teaplantations covers the surrounding hills toCoonoor and beyond and while in the area youshould experience a tasting of local Nilgiri teas. A more sedate version of Ooty, Coonoor is apopular destination for those who enjoy countrywalks, with Lamb's Rock offering a spectacularviewpoint over the plains and a botanical gardenat Sims Park. Picturesque Coonoor, incidentally,formed the backdrop for David Lean's 1984 film'A Passage to India'.www.audleytravel.com/southindia ?01993 838 355 ?Tamil Nadu & Karnataka55Blue Mountain RailwayThe Blue Mountain Railway, completedin 1908, is one of the oldest andsteepest operating rack and pinionrailways. The original steam locomotivepushes its blue and cream carriages from Mettupalayam to Coonoor, wherea diesel one completes the journey toOoty. The entire 45 kilometre routeincludes 16 tunnels, 19 bridges and 11 stations (many not operational) and takes up to four and a half hours to cover, as the train sometimes travelsat little more than walking pace. Thejourney is quite magical as you meanderthrough eucalyptus and tea plantationsto Ooty, with its subtropical vegetation,and spectacular views of the Nilgiri Hills. School Estate, CoorgThe Nilgiri Hills around OotySchool children, Dubare Elephant CampElephant being washed, Dubare Elephant CampTea pickers, Coonoor

ChettinadThe small towns and villages of the Chettinadregion are still relatively undiscovered by foreigntravellers and a stay here provides a fascinatinginsight into rural life in South India, as well as aninteresting contrast to the temple towns of TamilNadu. The region was once home to some ofIndia's wealthiest merchants, who built temples totheir family gods and decorated their fortifiedhomes with wonderful wood carvings. Althoughsome of the mansions now appear ratherdilapidated, behind closed doors often lie vastcourtyards and rooms adorned with brightlycoloured carvings and huge teak pillars. TheChettiars are also renowned for their cuisine,which is wonderfully spicy, and delicious sweetssuch as payasam and paal paniyaram. There arefascinating bazaars and markets to explore andlocal artisans to visit throughout the region.THEBANGALA, CHETTINADThe Bangala, a Tamil pronunciation of 'bungalow',was built by a Chettiar trader over 70 years agoand remains a family home on the outskirts ofKaraikudi, the main town of Chettinad. The 12fan-cooled guest rooms are simple, comfortableand well-maintained, decorated with antiquefurnishings and old family photographs whichadorn the walls. Surrounded by a small, colourfulgarden with a swimming pool, and priding itselfon producing delicious, healthy and authentic local dishes, the Bangala is the perfect place fromwhich to explore the small town and interestingnearby villages.VISALAM, CHETTINADVisalam is a beautifully restored Chettinadmansion, located in a village 16 kilometres fromKaraikudi. Built in the 1930s, the property wasonly ever used for a few family weddings until itwas recently converted into a hotel. The propertyis a wonderful mix of art deco, South Indian andcolonial styles, with 15 heritage rooms that reflectthe grandeur of the Chettiar lifestyle and offermodern facilities including a swimming pool. The restaurant serves traditional local cuisine and for those interested in learning more, thekitchen is fully interactive.Indira Gandhi National ParkKnown locally as Annamalai Sanctuary from theTamil meaning 'elephant hills' this 958 squarekilometre tract of forest is located on thesouthern reaches of the Western Ghats. Thevegetation ranges from dry deciduous to tropicalevergreen and the sanctuary is home to lion-tailedmacaque, wild elephant, Malabar giant squirrel,spotted and barking deer as well as butterflies and birds. With some patience and luck these can be spotted during a game drive by jeep, onelephant-back or even on foot with a local parkranger. More than anything, this is a great place to get off the beaten track and simply enjoy thenatural surroundings.56Landscape near ChettinadVisalam, ChettinadSpotted deer, Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary