ChettinadThe small towns and villages of the Chettinadregion are still relatively undiscovered by foreigntravellers and a stay here provides a fascinatinginsight into rural life in South India, as well as aninteresting contrast to the temple towns of TamilNadu. The region was once home to some ofIndia's wealthiest merchants, who built temples totheir family gods and decorated their fortifiedhomes with wonderful wood carvings. Althoughsome of the mansions now appear ratherdilapidated, behind closed doors often lie vastcourtyards and rooms adorned with brightlycoloured carvings and huge teak pillars. TheChettiars are also renowned for their cuisine,which is wonderfully spicy, and delicious sweetssuch as payasam and paal paniyaram. There arefascinating bazaars and markets to explore andlocal artisans to visit throughout the region.THEBANGALA, CHETTINADThe Bangala, a Tamil pronunciation of 'bungalow',was built by a Chettiar trader over 70 years agoand remains a family home on the outskirts ofKaraikudi, the main town of Chettinad. The 12fan-cooled guest rooms are simple, comfortableand well-maintained, decorated with antiquefurnishings and old family photographs whichadorn the walls. Surrounded by a small, colourfulgarden with a swimming pool, and priding itselfon producing delicious, healthy and authentic local dishes, the Bangala is the perfect place fromwhich to explore the small town and interestingnearby villages.VISALAM, CHETTINADVisalam is a beautifully restored Chettinadmansion, located in a village 16 kilometres fromKaraikudi. Built in the 1930s, the property wasonly ever used for a few family weddings until itwas recently converted into a hotel. The propertyis a wonderful mix of art deco, South Indian andcolonial styles, with 15 heritage rooms that reflectthe grandeur of the Chettiar lifestyle and offermodern facilities including a swimming pool. The restaurant serves traditional local cuisine and for those interested in learning more, thekitchen is fully interactive.Indira Gandhi National ParkKnown locally as Annamalai Sanctuary from theTamil meaning 'elephant hills' this 958 squarekilometre tract of forest is located on thesouthern reaches of the Western Ghats. Thevegetation ranges from dry deciduous to tropicalevergreen and the sanctuary is home to lion-tailedmacaque, wild elephant, Malabar giant squirrel,spotted and barking deer as well as butterflies and birds. With some patience and luck these can be spotted during a game drive by jeep, onelephant-back or even on foot with a local parkranger. More than anything, this is a great place to get off the beaten track and simply enjoy thenatural surroundings.56Landscape near ChettinadVisalam, ChettinadSpotted deer, Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary

MaduraiSituated on the banks of River Vaigai, Madurai isone of the oldest cities in South Asia. This is adestination like no other, with the huge SriMeenakshi Temple being virtually a town in itself.Built at the same time as the Taj Mahal, it is anoutstanding example of South Indian Hinduarchitecture, with nine towering gopuramssmothered in a riot of colourful stucco images.This is a perfect place to absorb the atmosphereof Hinduism, with the dark pillared halls filled withthousands of pilgrims, bare-chested priestsconducting ceremonies, a temple elephant givingblessings, and the scent of flowers, coconut andghee. Elsewhere in the city, the Gandhi Museumchronicles the life of the great Indian leader, thereare vast markets and faded palaces to exploreand a cultural centre which showcases Tamil arts.HERITAGEMADURAI, MADURAIThis property was designed in the 1970s byrenowned Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa as the Coat's Madurai Club. It is built from avariety of local materials, including honey-colouredstone cut from the nearby hills, slabs from anabandoned mill and pillars salvaged from derelicthouses. More recently it was converted into ahotel and it now oozes character and charmthroughout, with a variety of room choices to suit most budgets. The Banyan restaurant servescontemporary Indian and international cuisine in light and airy surroundings and there is arefreshing swimming pool.TanjoreTanjore (Thanjavur) is best known for its 1,000-year-old Brihadishwara or 'Big Temple' built by King Rajaraja I and dedicated to the godShiva. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, itstowers rise above as you approach through itsmanicured gardens. Nearby, the Nayak Palace isin a somewhat ruined state, but the atmosphereof the old durbar hall and the courtyards is veryevocative. Within the complex is the RajarajaMuseum and Art Gallery which contains somefine examples of bronzes from the Chola andother periods. There are also a number ofinteresting ancient manuscripts and drawings. www.audleytravel.com/southindia ?01993 838 355 ?Tamil Nadu & Karnataka57TrichyTrichy (Tiruchirapalli) is situated in the heart ofTamil Nadu and is famous for its Rock FortTemple. Perched on a large rocky outcrop, thetemple itself is a little disappointing but the climbis well worth the effort for the superb viewsacross the city and Cauvery Delta. Nearby on ariver island, the temple at Srirangam is enclosedby seven concentric walls, with each sectioninhabited by a different caste. The best views ofthe brightly-painted temple towers are from theroof, where you can clearly see the intricate andsometimes grotesque figures. It is also worth astroll along the river banks, where you maywitness fascinating ceremonies, such as childrenbeing blessed and offerings being made to Shivain the quest to find a wife.Heritage MaduraiYoung boys, TrichySri Meenakshi Temple, MaduraiTemple detail, TanjoreYoung girl with a bike, Chettinad