THEWILDERNEST, PERIYARNATIONALPARKThe Wildernest is a simple bed and breakfast,with a relaxed feel and friendly service. Therooms are modest but comfortable and it isideally situated, close to the Periyar National Parkand only a two minute walk from the town ofKumily. The property only serves breakfast, aswell as tea and cakes through the day, but it isjust a minute's walk to a number of fine hotelssuch as the Spice Village next door, where thereis a good selection of cuisine.SPICEVILLAGE, PERIYARNATIONALPARKOnly 500 metres from Periyar National Park, this delightful property seems to blend into thesurrounding hills. Scattered on the hillside, the 52 guest rooms and cottages offer a wonderfullypeaceful experience. Each room has beencarefully decorated with traditional Indianfurniture. The property has been thoughtfullydesigned to provide you with a completeexperience of Periyar, with excellent facilities,guided walks through the spice garden and talkson wildlife. In and around the hotel grounds,many bird species can be heard and spotted. There is a pool as well as an Ayurvedic centreoffering a range of treatments.SERENITY, VAZHOORLocated three hours by car from Periyar, Serenityis a former planter's home built in the 1920s andsurrounded by 25 acres of spices, coffee andrubber plantations. The six guest rooms aredecorated in a fusion of styles, with modernsculptures and locally produced coir mats. Forthose who come to relax, there is a pool andyoga pavilion, or you could spend the day withLakshmi, the resident elephant. Mountain bikesare available for exploring the local area. Each dayends with guests dining together, either in theupstairs dining room or on the outdoor terrace. Thekkady and Periyar National ParkThekkady, a popular resort and spice tradingtown next to Periyar National Park in theCardamom Hills, provides convenient access tothe park. Early morning walks are recommendedas the forest comes to life with the calls of birdsand monkeys, while a day spent inside the reservetrekking, bamboo rafting or taking a boat trip onPeriyar Lake can be a good way to spot elephant,gaur and deer. You can also stroll through one ofthe spice plantations, a highly educational andenjoyable experience seeing how crops such aspepper and nutmeg are grown and harvested. SHALIMARSPICEGARDEN,PERIYARNATIONALPARKSet in a tranquil rural location, surrounded by fruit trees and plantations, Shalimar Spice Gardenis the nearest you will get to a jungle experiencein Periyar. It has a total of 18 rooms and cottageswith modern boutique style interiors. Each roomand cottage is individually decorated with brightsplashes of colour provided by the softfurnishings. From the terraces of the rooms youwill be overlooking the spice gardens where awide variety of birds can be spotted and heard.Spices from the garden are used in the cooking.An Ayurvedic centre offers a range of treatmentsand there is also a small pool for relaxation.66Bamboo rafting in Periyar National ParkShalimar Spice Garden, Periyar National ParkSerenity, Vazhoor

NeeleshwarSituated on Kerala's quiet northern coast,Neeleshwar has only recently made its way onto the traveller's map. Small shops, a mosqueand a temple serve the needs of the local fishingcommunity. Fifteen kilometres to the north, theruins of Bekal Fort, jutting out on a promontoryinto the Arabian Sea, make for an interestingexcursion, while the beaches there remain quiet,undisturbed and the perfect place to relax. This is a great place to enjoy Keralan festivals such asTheyyam, the 'dance of the gods', performed atlocal temples by elaborately dressed and made-up dancers, and the Snake Festival wherewomen from local fishing communities are thecentral performers.NEELESHWARHERMITAGE,NEELESHWARNeeleshwar Hermitage is a peaceful retreat,situated on a quiet beach and is the perfectenvironment to relax and escape the pressures ofthe modern world. Set in the landscaped gardensare 16 spacious rooms in thatched cottages, builtby skilled craftsmen whose work is usually buildingand restoring temples. All are beautifully finishedin a traditional style with contemporary touchessuch as polished teak floors and many handmadefurnishings. A large infinity pool overlooks thebeach. Spa and Ayurvedic treatments, yoga andmeditation, as well as cultural programmes andcookery classes are all available.www.audleytravel.com/southindia ?01993 838 355 ?Kerala67Neeleshwar Hermitage, NeeleshwarYoung turtle, NeeleshwarElephant, Periyar National ParkKeralan cuisineFor over 2,000 years, Kerala has beenvisited by ocean-goers, including tradersfrom Europe and Arabia. Thus, Keralancuisine is a blend of different influencesadapted to local tastes. Coconuts growhere in abundance and feature in manydishes while the Indian Ocean andBackwaters have contributed to thevariety of delicious fish dishes. Kerala hasbeen a major exporter of spices forhundreds of years, so it is not surprisingthat pepper, cinnamon, cloves, ginger,and cardamom also play a big part in itsfood. The secrets of Keralan cuisine canbe learnt from a demonstration orcooking lesson, which can also involve a visit to the local market to seek outfresh ingredients. Mussel harvest, near NeeleshwarTheyyam dancer