PalakkadPalakkad is located in central Kerala in a naturaldepression in the Western Ghats and providesan interesting insight into typical rural life ofSouth India. The local economy relies on theproduction of rice, so you will find its landscapefilled with paddy fields and small villages wheretraditional farming methods continue to bepractised. This sleepy area suddenly comes tolife in the months of March and April, whencolourful festivals fill the streets and temples. KANDATHTHARAVAD,PALAKKADLocated in a small village and surrounded by rice paddies, Tharavad has been the ancestralhome of the Kandath family for over twocenturies. The house is entered via a raised areawith large carved teak pillars where moneylending was once conducted by the presentowner's grandfather. The accommodation is infour simple, air-conditioned en suite guestrooms. While staying here you can visit the localpottery maker, basket weavers' colony and aBrahmin village. In the evening, guests have theopportunity to taste typical local cuisine andstroll through the paddies at sunset. www.audleytravel.com/southindia ?01993 838 355 ?Kerala69TellicherryLocated on Kerala's north coast, the British builta fort here in 1708 to protect their valuabletrade in spices. The once bustling streets andfort are now much quieter, although the fishmarket is still as rowdy as ever, with vendorsraucously selling the day's catch. Though notsuitable for bathing, the long beach is great for a walk, and fascinating visits can be made to seeweavers at handlooms and beedi makers whohand roll local cigarettes. Between Novemberand March you may be able to visit a localHindu temple to see the energetic ritualTheyyam dances, involving elaborate costumesand masks. AYESHAMANZIL, TELLICHERRYThis old colonial mansion overlooking the IndianOcean was built for a British cinnamon planterand is now home to your hosts C.P. Moosa and Faiza, who have furnished it with antiquesand family heirlooms. Although the five guestrooms are a little faded, this homestay is a truefood lover's haven and hot, spicy Mopillahcuisine is a speciality. You can enjoy learningFaiza's recipe secrets and, when not enjoying the superb cuisine, this is a lovely place to relaxin a hammock or beside the green-tiledswimming pool.Entrance to Kandath Tharavad, PalakkadRolling beedis, TellicherryAyesha Manzil, TellicherryThattekad Bird SanctuaryA bird lover's paradise, Thattekad Bird Sanctuary,also known as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, isone of the richest bird habitats in peninsularIndia. It certainly lives up to this reputation withover 200 species of bird in a relatively small areaof only 25 square kilometres. The wordThattekad means flat forest and the region is anevergreen lowland forest woven with smallstreams and tributaries of the Periyar River.Some of the rare species of bird found hereinclude the mottled wood owl, spot-bellied eagleowl, Malayan night heron, Sri Lanka frogmouthand the Nilgiri wood pigeon. The sanctuary isalso home to an interesting variety of otherwildlife, including Indian elephants, sambar andmild barking deer, macaques, wild boar, giantsquirrels and the rare Travancore flying squirrel,thought to have been extinct for 100 years.MUNDACKALPLANTATIONHOMESTAY, NEARTHATTEKADThis hidden gem is set in a peaceful rubberplantation surrounded by pepper and coconutpalms. The homestay is an hour and a half'sdrive from Cochin yet you could not be furtherfrom the hustle and bustle of the city. Mundackalis the family home of Jose and Daisy. Here youwill enjoy friendly conversation and Daisy'sfreshly prepared and plentiful Keralan dishes. Thebeautiful gardens around the house are perfectfor early morning birdwatching and the house isa great base for visiting the nearby sanctuary.Faiza and C.P. Moosa from Ayesha Manzil, TellicherryGardens at Mundackal Plantation Homestay, Thattekad

PHILIPKUTTY'SFARM,BACKWATERSLocated on an island, which is reached by puntingacross the water in a long canoe, this propertygives a true sense of being in the middle ofnowhere. However, the waterways surroundingPhilip Kutty's Farm are the main form of transportin this area and guests will see many boats passingby and fishermen casting their nets. There are just six Keralan style fan-cooled cottages, alltraditionally furnished and facing the waterways.Many of the ingredients used for the deliciousmeals are produced on the family's 20 hectarefarm to the rear of the house.KUMARAKOMLAKERESORT,BACKWATERSThoughtfully laid out on the shores of VembanadLake, this resort is a true retreat, set amidlandscaped gardens. Canals meander around thecottages, each of which has been rebuilt fromvillage homesteads and are elegantly furnished inteak. One of the main attractions is an infinityswimming pool, with a Jacuzzi set on the banks of the lake. There is also an Ayurvedic centre anda multi-cuisine and seafood restaurant. Activitiesoffered include a houseboat cruise, a visit to thenearby Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, or rowing and fishing on the lake. In the evening, culturalperformances such as Kathakali are often staged. BackwatersA large part of Kerala's considerable charm lies in the Backwaters, a labyrinth of palm-lined rivers,canals and lagoons, most of them leading off LakeVembanad. Whether you spend time in one ofthe palm-shaded hotels or drift along in ahouseboat, it is difficult not to be captivated bythe local way of life. Seeing children travelling toschool in a narrow canoe, local ladies washingpots at the side of the canal and fishermen nettingtheir daily meal in the shallows, you realise howintegral this network of water is to the life of theregion. Between the rice paddies and plantationsof palms, villages, temples and churches are builtalong the banks and the area is also a haven for wildlife, including wading birds, kingfishers and fish eagles. OLAVIPE, BACKWATERSOlavipe offers a unique way to enjoy the beautyand tranquillity of the Backwaters. Owned by awell-travelled Syrian Christian family, this is theirheritage home, built in the 1880s, amid lushgreenery. From here, guests can stroll through the local village, explore the estate's 16 hectareorganic farm of coconut, nutmeg and vanilla,watch prawn farming or just unwind in ahammock. The family boatman takes guests for aslow ride along the local backwaters or you cantake a canoe out on the peaceful lagoon beforedrinks on the veranda with your charming hosts.70Fishing nets on the BackwatersPhilip Kutty's Farm, BackwatersKumarakom Lake Resort, BackwatersOlavipe Homestay, Backwaters