Kanha National ParkKanha National Park covers over 940 squarekilometres and has two main entry points, at Kisli and the more remote Mukki gate, withaccommodation available at each. Over 200 birdspecies and 22 species of mammal, includingleopard, the Indian wild dog and swamp deerhave been recorded. Many can be seen from yourbreakfast table, or in the meadows during yourmorning game drive. There is a healthy populationof tiger and sloth bear, although the bear'screpuscular habits mean it is rarely seen outsidethe hours of dawn or dusk. Kanha can be reachedfrom Raipur and Nagpur airports or Jabalpur trainstation, but incorporating visits to the moreaccessible Bandhavgarh or Pench reduces journey times and enables you to experiencecontrasting parks.SHERGARH, KANHAWith fourteen years' experience as a naturalist,Jehan, and his English wife, Katie, run this tentedcamp on the quieter side of the park, which theyset up in 2004. They personally look after theirguests and the atmosphere is very relaxed andinformal. Set in reforested woodland around awaterhole which attracts a variety of birds, the sixtents are simple but comfortably furnished. Eachattached bathroom has a separate shower roomand dressing area, and the use of local materialsgives a rustic feel. The focus is on well-guidedwildlife and rural activities that are sensitive to theenvironment and local community. River and hillwalks, cycle rides through the jungle andsurrounding villages, and visits to weekly tribalmarkets are all part of the experience.FLAMEOFTHEFOREST, KANHAA dream hideaway for nature enthusiasts nestlingright next to the Banjar River and only tenminutes from the Kisli Gate, the lodge offersabsolute privacy with a stunning view over theriver and deep into the jungle. There are onlyfour luxury cottages, built and designed in gober(mud, water and cow dung mix). The ownerKaran, who previously worked as a naturalist for14 years, decided with his Swiss wife Isabelle, toprovide a small personal camp with an individualservice. Karan himself enjoys taking his guests onjeep safaris and is extremely passionate aboutKanha's wildlife and natural environment. Thereare no TV's or swimming pool, but an outsidewaterfall-style shower, a peaceful setting andbeautiful views over the river more than make up for it.Pench National ParkThought to have inspired Kipling's 'Jungle Book',Pench is a relatively new park, dedicated to theprotection of the tiger and is perhaps the leastknown national park in Madhya Pradesh. Despitebeing only two hours' drive from Nagpur airport,www.audleytravel.com/india ?01993 838 350 ?Wildlife in India81visitor numbers are low and its teak forestssupport a huge variety of birdlife. Although thetiger is more elusive here than in some of theother parks, mammals such as langur, spotteddeer and jungle cat are regularly seen. Entry to thepark is prohibited after dark, but a private nightdrive through the buffer zone with an expertnaturalist is an exciting way of viewing some ofthe region's nocturnal creatures, including the fascinating flying squirrel.Tadoba-Andhari Tiger ReserveThe Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, situated inthe Chandrapur District of Maharashtra, spansover 620 square kilometres. It became one ofIndia's 28 reserves, allocated for the protection of tigers in 1995. Its hills support a dense, tropicaldeciduous forest, largely made up of teak andbamboo sliced through by the Andhari River.Although Tadoba has a healthy population oftiger, they are not accustomed to human presenceand are slow to show themselves. It sis worthspending several days here to increase yourchances of sighting them. The park is also hometo many other mammals, such as leopard, slothbear, gaur, wild dog, striped hyena, jungle cat and chausingha (the four-horned antelope),not to mention a rich birdlife. Tadoba-AndhariTiger Reserve is ideal for those who want tosample a quieter, lesser-known national park andtiger reserve.Tent at Shergarh, Kanha National ParkTiger on the prowl, Pench National ParkFlame of the Forest, Kanha National ParkChital deer, Kanha National ParkWhite-eyed buzzard, Taboda-Andhari Tiger Reserve

82FORSYTH'S, SATPURAThis lodge is named after the British officer, JamesForsyth, who established the Forest Departmentin central India and wrote many accounts of thearea's highlands in the 1860s. Forsyth's is a small,stylish lodge set within 18 hectares of wildlife-richjungle, sitting on the edge of the Satpura NationalPark. The twelve cottages have been built usinglocal materials and are designed to fit in with thelocal environment with as little impact as possible.The main building, made of rammed earth,contains the dining room on the ground floor,while upstairs there is a lounge bar with a terraceoverlooking the jungle. There is also a small pool.The focus of this lodge is primarily the wildlife andwilderness experience, but interaction with thelocal villages and community are also at theforefront of their ideology.Nagarhole National ParkNagarhole National Park, in the southern state of Karnataka, was once the exclusive huntingpreserve of the rulers of Mysore. Sprawledaround a huge reservoir, the surrounding land islush with dense forests and marshy swamps.Nagarhole is best known for its wild elephants,although a range of birds and other mammals arefrequently spotted. Game drives can be taken bycoracle, motorboat or shared jeep and you canalso take short elephant safaris. The park is easilyaccessible by road from both northern Kerala andMysore and is the best place to view wildlifeduring a tour of southern India.CICADERESORT, NAGARHOLECicade offers accommodation in 16 rooms andcottages set directly on the edge of the KabiniRiver, and is a wonderful place to relax and watchthe multitude of animal and birdlife from thecomfort of your private veranda. The day'ssightings on the well-organised game drives andboat rides can be discussed over a delicious mealwith the knowledgeable and friendly guides andnaturalists. If the exertion of the day's game drivesis not enough, there is a well-equipped gym, afantastic pool, spa, and a well-stocked bookshopwhere you can read up on the rarer animals andbirds of the region.Satpura National ParkThe Satpura National Park is one of CentralIndia's lesser-known parks and takes its namefrom the Satpura hill ranges of Madhya Pradesh.Created in 1981, the park covers an area of 524square kilometres and along with the adjoiningBori and Pachmarhi Sanctuaries, provides 1427square kilometres of unique Central IndianHighland ecosystem. The terrain of the nationalpark is extremely rugged and consists ofsandstone peaks, narrow gorges and ravines. The scenery is beautiful, with the densely forestedhills reflected in the vast sparkling water of theTawa reservoir.Satpura National Park supports an array ofmammals including the tiger, leopard, sambar,chital, nilgai, bison and wild dog. It's a particularlygood place to see the sloth bear and a goodnumber of sightings have been recorded recently.There are a variety of birds, with hornbills andpeafowl being the most common. Though it's one of the most varied tiger habitats,Satpura is not the best place to see tigers.However, it's virtually free of other visitors, andyou can explore on foot or by canoe, elephant orjeep, or position yourself in carefully sited hides.The nearest town to the national park isPachmarhi and the nearest railhead is Piparia, 55 kilometres away. Asian elephant, Nagarhole National ParkView from Forsyth's Lodge, Satpura