Dendera & AbydosDendera is just over 30 miles north of Luxoralong the Nile valley, near the town of Qena.There was a temple here dating back at least tothe time of Cheops and the Old Kingdom(around 2560 BC), although much of what yousee today is Ptolemaic in origin (around 300 BC).The temple was dedicated to the worship ofHathor, the goddess of joy and love, equatedwith the Greek Aphrodite. The goddess takes onbovine form, a possible link to a time when theSahara was fertile grazing ground. At Dendera thisis best seen in the column capitals, sculpted toform the goddess' head, complete with longcow's ears. Nearby, the temple of Seti I atAbydos occupies an important place in thereligious history of Pharaonic Egypt. By the end of the Old Kingdom its local god, Osiris, was themost prominent and popular of the Egyptian godssince he was the god of the afterlife. According totradition, Osiris' head was buried in Abydos.www.audleytravel.com/egypt ?01993 838 410 ?Egypt19The Valley of the KingsThe Theban necropolis is found on the west bank of the Nile at Luxor, and is one of the most visited attractions in Egypt, andperhaps the world. Here funerary templesand tombs are are so well-preserved thatthey have taught archaeologists and historiansa great deal about Ancient Egyptian historyand legends, as well as the funerary practicesof this civilisation. The Valley of the Kings is usually the focus of most trips to the west bank, with its tombs cut into the surrounding hillside.The paintings on the walls of these tombsseem as fresh as the day they werecompleted, yet they date back over 3,000 years. Elsewhere, the remains of massive funerarytemples are found, though only a few remain.Those dedicated to Hatchepsut, Ramses IIand Ramses III are the best preserved and a visit to the west bank would not becomplete without including at least one ofthese. There are still more tombs to be seen, in the Valley of the Queens and theTombs of the Nobles, with paintings that are equally as impressive as those in theValley of the Kings.Detail from tomb, Valley of the KingsAl Moudira, LuxorThe gods Horus and Isis, Temple of Hathor, DenderaTomb reliefs, Valley of the KingsHilton Luxor Resort & SpaGoddess of Hathor, DenderaHILTONLUXORRESORT& SPAThe Hilton is the most luxurious andcontemporary hotel in the city, with majesticviews over the Nile. It has one of the mostimpressive spa complexes in Egypt, with anamazing infinity pool and an incredible locationright next to the Nile. Rooms are comfortableand spacious and for extra luxury you couldchoose to stay in one of the Spa Suites. You canenjoy a sundowner or a shisha pipe in realcomfort, looking out over the Nile. The hotel is just a 15 minute walk from Karnak Temple,which you can visit at any time under your own steam.ALMOUDIRA, LUXOROn the outskirts of Gezira, a small village on thewest bank at Luxor, Al Moudira is an oasis ofcalm away from the touts and trinket sellers ofthe town. Built by a Lebanese lady, it is one of the few hotels in Egypt with a truly Arab sense of style. Moorish arches and peaceful courtyardsgive the feel of an Ottoman palace, and thecolours used are those found in the nearby tombs and temples. In the rooms, high ceilingsand traditional designs and furniture complete the sense of a luxurious retreat after a busy day's sightseeing.SOFITELWINTERPALACE, LUXOROne of the most famous hotels in Egypt, theWinter Palace was built in the late 19th centuryto provide accommodation for visiting Englishnobility. It was here that Howard Carter wasstaying (courtesy of Lord Carnarvon) when hediscovered Tutankhamun's tomb. A building ofreal character, it occupies a prime location on theNile Corniche in Luxor. The hotel was recentlyrenovated and the 86 rooms have marvellous high ceilings and period furnishings. A grand placeto stay when exploring the temples of Luxor.Sofitel Winter Palace, Luxor

AswanAswan is easily the prettiest town in Egypt andalthough not as rich in sights as Luxor, still has the picture-perfect Temple of Philae and themonumental High Dam. Feluccas sail on thewinding Nile, past rounded boulders and palm-fringed islands. The steep western banks of theriver lead into the desert, the horizon broken only by the faint outlines of the Monastery of St Simeon and the Aga Khan's Mausoleum. The town has a large Nubian population, some of whom were displaced from their originalhomeland following the creation of Lake Nasser.Today they live in villages on the Nile islands andtheir heritage and culture are celebrated in thefantastic Nubian Museum, one of the bestmuseums in Egypt.SOFITELLEGENDOLDCATARACT, ASWANThe Old Cataract is one of the prettiest hotels in one of the most scenic locations in Egypt and,since being renovated, one of the most luxurioustoo. Seemingly cut off from the town of Aswanitself, it faces out over the Nile to ElephantineIsland and the sands of the Sahara beyond. Thehotel itself is over a century old and its 138rooms have a wonderful mix of Arabesque andEdwardian style, with horseshoe arches, marblefloors and delicate wooden screens. The bar andrestaurant at the front of the hotel are the bestplace from which to view an Aswan sunset.BASMAHOTEL, ASWANPerched on Aswan's highest hill, this four starcomplex commands a breathtaking view of theNile River as it snakes through the picturesquetown of Aswan. It offers great value for moneyand is a good hotel for a short stay in the town.The large pool and garden terrace are the perfectplace to relax and enjoy the sunshine, while the210 rooms are comfortable and decorated withoriginal artwork by local artists.Edfu TempleBetween Luxor and Aswan lie a number ofarchaeological sites, one of the most important of which is Edfu Temple. On the site where,according to Ancient Egyptian legend, the godHorus defeated the god Seth, Ptolemy IIIEuergetes began construction of a templededicated to Horus. Six pharaohs later it wascomplete, the second largest temple in AncientEgypt after Karnak.Kom Ombo TempleAnother important site, Kom Ombo is aPtolemaic temple. Unusually it is dedicated to twodifferent gods: Sobek, god of the Nile, normallyrepresented by a crocodile, and Haroeris whowas an older manifestation of Horus. To reflectthis dual dedication, the temple is essentiallymirrored down a central line, with two entrancesand perfectly symmetrical construction right downto the twin sanctuaries to the two gods.20Feluccas on the Nile, AswanSofitel Legend Old Cateract, AswanTemple of Horus, Edfu