MadabaMadaba, a town at the northern end of theKings' Highway, has a strong Christian heritage,with numerous churches dotted around itsquiet, charming streets. The town is best knownfor the fine examples of Byzantine-era mosaics,the most famous of which is a map from the6th century depicting the Holy Land. It is easilyexplored on a walking tour, taking in all thechurches and the archaeological park, which isan open-air museum.Mount NeboSaid to be the spot from which Moses viewedthe Holy Land and where tradition has it he was later buried, Mount Nebo is an importantplace for Christian pilgrimage. A church hasexisted on this site since 393 AD and althoughit has been much altered and restored sincethen, it still houses some mosaics which arearound 1,500 years old. Mount Nebo is theperfect place to stop on the Kings' Highway fora view over the Holy Land. On clear days, thetowns of Jericho and Jerusalem can be made out in the distance, across the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea.MukawirA short drive off the Kings' Highway, on a lonelypinnacle overlooking the Dead Sea, is the castleof Mukawir. It was the site of Herod's Palace,where Salome asked for the head of John theBaptist as a reward for her dancing, and also acentre of resistance to Rome during the FirstJewish Revolt. After the steep climb up to thecastle you are rewarded with fantastic viewsover the surrounding hills. The outline of thecamps and even the siege ramp built by theRomans to capture Mukawir can still be seen.For centuries the Kings' Highway was theprincipal route for traders travelling betweenArabia and the Levant. It hugs the edge of theGreat Rift Valley, with the Dead Sea filling thebottom of this huge split in the earth. Thehighway crosses countless river beds and theavailability of water made this a key trade route.These days, most heavy traffic takes the DesertHighway, leaving the winding switchbacks,dramatic vistas, castles and churches to theintrepid visitor. Some of the sights of the Kings'Highway can be visited on a drive betweenAmman and Petra but a return journey on thesame route may be necessary to visit them all.The Kings' Highway34Kings' Highway at Wadi MujibMount NeboHoly Land mosaic, Madaba

Shawbak CastleWith fewer visitors than Kerak and still in needof restoration, Shawbak is in some ways a more rewarding stop on the Kings' Highway. It is more of an adventure to explore, wanderingaround ornately decorated towers, pastcrumbling churches and underneath vaultedpassageways. The truly intrepid, equipped with a torch, might care to descend the 350 stepsunder the castle to the well that allowed theCrusaders to hold out for two years before itfell to Saladin in 1189 AD.Lot's CaveAnother site of biblical renown, Lot's Cave iswhere the prophet reputedly sheltered followingthe destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah. Found at the southern end of the Dead Sea, the artefacts recovered from the site are linkedto various different periods of history and thesite itself is worth a visit for its dramatic location.Accessed by 300 steps, the cave is protected by the remains of a church, which houses fiverestored mosaics dating to the 6th century AD.It was originally designed so that Jewish andMuslim pilgrims could also enter the cavewithout needing to pass through the churchthreshold. The views over the town, thesurrounding countryside and to the Dead Seaare breathtaking from here.www.audleytravel.com/jordan ?01993 838 415 ?Jordan35Kerak CastleAs you approach Kerack Castle, which towersover the modern town, it is immediatelyobvious why all the powers involved in theCrusades wanted control of this bastion. Kerakwas established in the 12th century andremained in Crusader hands for just forty years.Its already excellent defensive features werefurther refined by the Mamluks, with theaddition of a lower courtyard and a deepermoat. The castle is certainly a highlight of a tripalong the Kings' Highway with a number ofinterior halls and chambers to explore.Jordanian man by the Kings' HighwayKerak CastleShobak Castle