KASBAHDUTOUBKAL, HIGHATLASLocated at the base of Jebel Toubkal, this remotehotel offers the perfect base for exploring theAtlas Mountains and getting to grips with Berberculture. The converted kasbah is built entirelyalong traditional lines, with plaster walls, woodenceilings and simple, local decoration. There is ahammam for unwinding after a day in themountains, and the roof terrace is perfect for aquiet mint tea or a welcome tajine as you bask inthe inspiring scenery. As well as guided walks intothe surrounding mountains, you can also visitnearby villages and hamlets that are home tomany of the staff. As part of their sustainabletourism policy the Kasbah sets aside five per centof all proceeds for local community projects.TOUBKALLODGE, HIGHATLASThe Kasbah du Toubkal's trekking lodge allowsguests to stay in the spectacular heart of themountains without having to compromise on thestandard of accommodation. The three en suiterooms have traditional wooden ceilings, carveddoors and fossil marble in the bathrooms.Warmth is provided by solar powered underfloorheating and a wood burning stove in the loungearea, where picture windows lead out onto aterrace with spectacular views of the valley andvillages below. The lodge is a fascinating day trekfrom the Kasbah du Toubkal.www.audleytravel.com/morocco ?01993 838 420 ?Morocco65Walking in the AtlasWith the spectacular scenery of the HighAtlas, walking and trekking are popularoptions and can be easily arranged. Trips canrange from a few hours of self guidedrambling in the foothills, to full day treks. You can even undertake a longer trek lastingseveral days, where simple, remote lodgesprovide a soothing respite at the end of atiring day. The ascent of Mount Toubkal is afavourite, requiring no technical expertise buta good level of fitness and commitment. Wherever you stay in the mountains, guidedtreks can be arranged directly with yourhotel, or you can follow one of many wellmarked trails. Alternatively, your specialist canhelp you to plan a specific trek in advance.Part of the appeal of walking in this part ofthe world is the chance to meet the localBerber people, who may invite you into theirhomes for some mint tea and a chat. Forone of the highest mountain ranges on thecontinent, you will find the High Atlas to besurprisingly populated and accessible, but thisis all part of the charm, with Berber villagesperched on high peaks, framed by snow-capped Alpine summits.Man with donkey, High AtlasTrekking in the High AtlasYoung Berber girl, High AtlasKasbah Du Toubkal, High AtlasToubkal Lodge, High Atlas

The easygoing nature of the town, the dramaticramparts and the excellent windsurfing have formany years attracted artists and bohemians alike,creating a cosmopolitan atmosphere quitedifferent to the rest of the country.RIADWATIER, ESSAOUIRARiad Watier is an intimate place to stay, offeringexcellent value for money in the heart of the oldmedina. The comfortable rooms are tastefullydecorated with neutral tones of white and beige,contrasting with bright splashes of colourfultextiles and locally crafted wooden furniture. Two small roof terraces have views of thecoastline and are perfect for a drink beforedinner. The riad is one of the only hotels in townto have a full-time cook who prepares traditionalMoroccan and French dishes that are served in itsrelaxed dining room.HEUREBLEUEPALAIS,ESSAOUIRAPossibly the most luxurious accommodation inEssaouira, Heure Bleue Palais is a beautifullyrenovated riad with an enviable location in themedina. It boasts an impressive inner courtyardand many extra facilities that the smaller riads donot have, such as a pool, spa, restaurant and bar.The rooms are decorated in a mixture of African, Portuguese and British colonial styles,while the roof terrace has views over the portand beach.VILLADEL'O, ESSAOUIRAThe Villa de L'O is an 18th century riad that hasbeen beautifully restored to a very high standard.It has an excellent location, just inside the medinawalls and a few metres from the beach and souqs.The 12 rooms and suites surround a central leafycourtyard and breakfast area. Each has its ownindividual design and theme, from safari totraditional Moroccan and British colonial. Theattractive rooftop terrace boasts sweeping viewsover Essaouira bay, making it a great place to relax over breakfast during the summer months.EssaouiraOn Morocco's western Atlantic seaboard,Essaouira is one of the most picturesque towns in the country. In 1760, the Sultan SidiMohammed had a captive Frenchman design thetown. He also promoted trade, making it awealthy commercial centre. The fortifications thatenclose the city shelter a charming, atmosphericand car-free town. Fresh fish arrive at the port via a fleet of small boats, and an attractive beachstretches off to the south, although Essaouira isanything but a conventional beach destination.66Fishing boats in Essaouira harbourVilla de L'O, EssaouiraRiad Watier, EssaouiraHeure Bleue Palais, Essaouira