TehranThere is nowhere better in Iran than Tehran toget an overview of Persian history and culture.The museums here are amongst the best in theMiddle East and are an essential part of any visit.The pick of them is probably the Golestan Palace,though the National Museum of Iran and theNational Jewels Museum are fantastic to strollthrough. Like any other capital Tehran has its fair share of problems. On some days the trafficcan seem like a glacial flow, but try not to let this negative image blot out the many positives of a visit here.ShirazThere's no wine here. If there were this would be the most convivial city in the Middle East. Thelocals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climateis pleasant for most of the year; and the nearbyattractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam arethe equal of anything in Athens or Rome. If youlike bazaars then welcome to the best one in Iran,selling everything from carpets to cake under avaulted ceiling dating back 250 years. Shiraz alsoexcels in architecture - indeed many of its finestbuildings were built to rival Esfahan.86Bazaar, ShirazPersepolis and the Persian EmpireBeneath the searing heat of the Persian sun,backed by Mt Rahmat, lie the ruins of theonce-great Achaemenid Empire. Smotheredin sand and rock until the 1930s, this amazingsite was once a religious and culturalpowerhouse, dominating peoples as disparateas the Scythians of Siberia and the Copts ofEthiopia. It is this ancient empire that has given today's Iranians a distinctly un-Arabic culture and character. Whilst mostIranians see themselves as Islamic, they donot consider themselves as Arabic, but asdistinctly Iranian or Persian. This is a directconsequence of the vast empire oncecontrolled from Persepolis, which continuesto loom large in the national psyche.Persepolis succumbed finally to Alexanderthe Great, whose thirst for conquest was sothoroughly slaked here that he left onlyrubble - though this alone is supremelyimpressive, reminding the casual visitor of the sheer depth and longevity of Persianhistory and culture. Anyone with even apassing interest in antiquity should make avisit here their first priority.Carving detail, PersepolisDetail, Golestan Palace, TehranColumns of the Great Hall, Persepolis

EsfahanImagine an architectural portfolio so astonishing in its craftsmanship that it epitomises the best offive hundred years of Islamic culture, and youhave imagined Esfahan. There are at least a dozensights of dazzling quality here, including three ofthe finest religious buildings anywhere - the Jame,Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. These wouldrank alongside the glories of Damascus,Samarkand and Istanbul in any list of the must-sees of the Islamic world. Nothing can prepareyou for the heart-stopping moment when youfirst see the scale and grandeur of Imam Square,the world's second largest public space, containingwithin it the zenith of Persian art and architecture.Walking along the banks of the Zayandeh River,exploring the Armenian quarter or simply relaxing in a teahouse, Esfahan is an unmitigateddelight and one of the best places in Iran to meet local people, for whom this city is theirproudest achievement.THEABBASI, ESFAHANBuilt around the remains of a caravanseraioriginally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasiis Esfahan's, if not Iran's, best and mostcharacterful hotel - though as with the rest ofIran, do not expect outstanding service. In manyrespects, The Abbasi is like a museum. Everythingis on a grand scale, and walking into the hugecourtyard cannot fail to impress. There is aswimming pool and sauna (single sex only,available on a rotational basis) and a choice ofattractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in thecentral courtyard a real treat in spring andsummer. The location, within walking distance ofImam Square, cannot be faulted. The ornatebreakfast room is remarkable and may just be the grandest room you'll ever have breakfast in!www.audleytravel.com/iran ?01993 838 265 ?Iran87Carpet shop, EsfahanIman Square, EsfahanCourtyard at The Abbasi, EsfahanBridge of 33 arches, EsfahanIman Mosque, EsfahanCeiling of Iman Mosque, EsfahanShah Abbas, who made Esfahan his capitalSchoolgirls playing, Esfahan