ADELAIDEEdged by the Mount Lofty ranges and the longwhite sands of the Gulf of St Vincent, the styleof the city, influenced by Australia's first freesettlers, is still very much in evidence as graciousstone buildings pepper the streets and you willnever stray far from open green parkland. Agreat charm, and indeed calm, infuses the cityand it can be easily explored on foot. Thecultural centre lies in a string of commandingpublic buildings that run between the grand, oldtree-lined North Terrace and the River Torrens,while the north of the city is a lattice of bluestone cottages and thriving al fresco restaurants.The gorgeous Adelaide Hills, draped in steepvineyards amidst acres of bushland and bustlingupcountry towns, are less than half an hour bycar from the city and offer a superb alternativeto a stay in the centre itself. Glenelg, reached bya vintage tramline, is a cheerful seaside resortwhere open-air cafés are set around a lovelyswimming beach and is the ideal place to whileaway time. The city prides itself on being theartistic capital of Australia, especially at the timeof the acclaimed Adelaide Festival, and theAustralian Aboriginal Cultures Gallery houses anextensive collection of artefacts and artworks.Adelaide Heritage CottagesThis selection of delightful character propertiesscattered around the charming streets of NorthAdelaide are all within walking distance of O'ConnellStreet with its diverse collection of restaurants. Thejewel in the crown of the group is the 'Bishop'sGarden', formerly the Bishop of Adelaide'sresidence. Just around the corner is Buxton Manor,a rambling mansion that houses four apartments ofwhich Musica Viva and the Garden Loft are ourfavourites. For something less conventional, stay inthe Old Fire Station, complete with 1930s fireengine, or the Friendly Meeting Chapel, bothsomewhat quirky, but no less comfortable.South Australia58The beaches and cliffs of SouthAustralia's southern coastline shelter agreen landscape that quickly fades intothe Outback at its most remote,peppered with quirky outposts ofwestern civilisation and suffused withthe myths and legends of AboriginalDreamtime. The state's original settlersestablished Adelaide as the world's firstplanned city and German Lutheransarrived ten years later to do the same tothe landscape, planting neat vineyardsin the Barossa Valley, but a wave ofItalian immigration in the 1950sbrought expresso and a certain Latinflair. Whether in its capital, Adelaide,its small rural market towns or remoteopal mining and farming communities,character shines through the dramaticlandscapes that fade towards the aridexpanse of the Nullarbor Plain and theRed Centre. Wildlife viewing here issecond to none, with Kangaroo Islandand the rugged Gawler Ranges on themainland, and southern seas patrolledby whales, where swimming withsealions is a once-in-a-lifetime highlight,little wonder they call South Australiathe country's best kept secret.Buxton Manor, Adelaide Heritage Cottages

Adelaide Hills Country CottagesLess than half an hour from the city, these fivedelightful country cottages are hidden in theAdelaide Hills. Each is a self-contained, distinctivelydecorated retreat set in seclusion overlooking thelake or the orchards. The Adelaide Hills are theperfect city alternative from which to explore thecity itself as well as the enchanting regions of theBarossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Your hosts, Steveand Mandy, will ensure that your stay is memorable. SOUTH AUSTRALIA59ROBELocated on South Australia's magnificentLimestone coast, Robe was one of the firstsettlements in South Australia. But while othersettlements grew into cities, Robe simply relaxedin its glorious coastal isolation, and today youwill find a charming seaside village and fishingport where the main preoccupation is lobster:fishing for lobster, preparing it in a variety ofways, choosing the wines to complement eachdish, then talking about what to do with thenext day's catch. The lovely main street leads toGuichen Bay which reveals stunning oceanviews. Robe is a small town with a unique andfriendly atmosphere - the perfect place to breakyour journey. Apple Tree Cottage, Adelaide Hills Country CottagesPort Nurlunga, AdelaideGrey Masts, RobeThis delightful heritage-listed building has beenrestored to offer distinctive accommodation in theheart of Robe. The property has a somewhatmaritime feel, with polished floorboards taken fromthe ballast of a shipwreck artfully melded withmodern furnishings to create luxuriously comfortablerooms. Your view overlooks beautiful Guichen Bayand you are just a stroll from the fine restaurantsfor which this haven has become famous.TOURABOUT ADELAIDEArmed with a wealth of knowledge and perhapsmore importantly, a love of all things SouthAustralian, a Tourabout Adelaide guide willdesign a day to suit you and your individualinterests. A walking tour of the compact citycentre, built on a level floodplain, will enableyou to discover the history, culture and cuisineof one of Australia's most tranquil cities withoutstruggling up any hills. Additionally guides arealso quite happy to take to the road to showyou the best of the Barossa Valley, the MclarenVale, or the quaint Adelaide Hills.Grey MastsAdelaide