Casa Palopó, Lake AtitlánLocal girl, Santiago de AtitlánLocal fishermen, Lake AtitlánHotel Atitlán, Lake Atitlánwww.audleytravel.com/guatemala l 01993 838 695 l Guatemala 35Lake AtitlánThe two hour drive from Antigua to Lake Atitlán takes you through the central highlands, an area of dramatic peaks and verdant forests dotted with colourful traditional villages. The winding road leading down to the water's edge rewards you with incredible views of the lake and its spectacular backdrop of three cone-shaped volcanoes: San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán. The Maya descendents throughout this area are undoubtedly the most colourfully dressed in Guatemala, if not the whole of Central America. Each village around the lake maintains its own traditional dress with intricately woven shirts, huipiles (tunics) and skirts of the brightest reds, greens, yellows, pinks and blues. The lake itself is mesmerising and it is easy to while away some time here just relaxing and absorbing the views, but the best way to enjoy the stunning scenery is to travel by lancha (boat) and visit the indigenous villages of Santiago de Atitlán, San Juan la Laguna and San Antonio Palopó. Hotel Atitlán, Lake AtitlánBuilt in the style of a colonial hacienda, Hotel Atitlán has a privileged location on the lakeshore and is within walking distance of the largest lakeside town, Panajachel. There are 62 guest bedrooms all with lovely views of the lake and the luscious tropical gardens that surround the hotel. A swimming pool overlooks the lake while birds flitter between the roses, hibiscus and bougainvillea. Lomas de Tzununá, Lake AtitlánLomas de Tzununá is a peaceful property set on a steep slope overlooking Lake Atitlán. The hotel comprises just ten simple Swiss chalet-style rooms, a restaurant and a swimming pool. Each room is decorated with Guatemalan paintings in traditional colours and has a balcony with beautiful views of the lake. The hotel is located close to the small village of Santa Cruz, a 30 minute boat ride away from Panajachel. Casa Palopó, Lake AtitlánThe Casa Palopó is Lake Atitlán's most luxurious hotel with just eight spacious rooms and a two-bedroom villa, friendly staff and stunning views of the lake. It is situated four kilometres from Panajachel and is a fantastic place to relax while visiting the area. Facilities include a great infinity pool, comfortable living area and the hotel restaurant '6.8 Palopó', which serves up delicious fresh dishes.Sunset at Lake Atitlán

Trading livestock, Western HighlandsExploring an underground cave, Cobán Mother and child at San Francisco el Alto market36Western HighlandsWest of Lake Atitlán the mountainous landscape acts as a physical barrier between the many small market towns and villages that cling to the steep slopes. Consequently, each has developed and maintained its own character and culture making this a rewarding region to explore. A patchwork of small fields farmed by communities blankets the hillsides in a bucolic scene that has been lost in other areas. The small city of Quetzaltenango (commonly known as Xela) makes a great base for visiting this off-the-beaten-track region. It has a lovely square with a beautifully restored façade of an old colonial church. If you are especially keen on markets, take time to visit the famous San Francisco el Alto's Friday livestock market. It's a bustling affair and an intriguing experience for visitors as the locals set about bargaining for their weekly produce.The far northwestThe forested landscape of the far northwestern highlands of Guatemala is often shrouded in mist, its isolated villages hemmed in by mountains. Here the traditional way of life still persists and a visit to the village of Todos Santos Cuchumatán and the 'Ixil Triangle', comprised of the villages of Nebaj, Chajul and Cotzal, offers an insightful glimpse into life in the local indigenous communities.Cobán & the VerapacesIf you are searching for the elusive resplendent quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala, then Verapaces, the region surrounding Cobán, is the place to go. Formed from a massive limestone plateau that has eroded over the ages, the area is littered with huge caves and underground caverns dripping with magnificent stalactites and stalagmites. A sacred place to the Maya, these caves are gloriously intricate and close by is Semuc Champey with pools of turquoise water and slender limestone bridges. The small city of Cobán and nearby town of Lanquín are the bases for visiting the area. Although the accommodation is simple, there are thundering rivers, cardamom and coffee-clad hills, Maya museums and the Biotopo del Quetzal reserve to explore.Annual horse race, Todos Santos Cuchumatán